1974 20SF Rework / Modification

[PackRat]

Thanks Rybones,

The hull was Aqua Mist and the topside was Insignia White.

On the deck, raised about 1.75 -2” . No issues with draining. I have not noticed a lot of water on the deck but a lot of use is back bay and generally protected water where might not show up. Just standing in the stern corner in calmer water doesnt produce any water - Im probably the heaviest in the boat so far at ~200 lbs. i purchased the rabud scuppers but opted not to install them as didnt see a need yet. Ill try to get a photo of the water line on the transom to show you how it sits with this motor, bracket, etc.

The Simrad unit was just installed with foam gasket and corner studs that came in the box.
I do have a 1/4” starboard panel accross the whole area that pushes it out a bit. It is a little snug to the front of the console but didnt feel it was a problem for connectors or cable bends. Seem to recall that the connectors were toward the lower half of the unit and the space goes up the lower you go due to the angle of the panel. Id send you a photo but I pull the electronics for the winter ..... I can send you a photo of the cut-out. Just used the provided template.

[PackRat]

Rybones,

See photos below:
Photo is rotated 90 deg CCW....The deck top surface is about 3.5" above the water line and the water line is about 3.5" above the chine at the transom for this boat. The drain tube was a fiberglass 1" ID x 1.25" OD that I angled down to make room for Rabud diameter below the bracket flange. Size was kept small to fit inside Rabud scupper diameter but I never installed.

I told you a wrong number - the starboard panel was 3/8" thick, not 1/4". I installed a 1/2" panel inside console to screw all the electrical components to so that took up a little room as well. Don't think you will have a problem fitting it in. Don't judge me too harshly on wiring as did not button all that up tight just yet as might add a few extras this spring , 12V power receptacles , etc. and need to route some wires.

[ReelTherapy]

Great build! I like the way you transitioned from the liner to the knees midway. I've got 1970 i'm starting in the coming months. I'm in MD also, but i'm on the other side of the bridge. Where on the ES are you?

[PackRat]

Thanks for comment.
I’m in Centreville about 15 min. east of the Bay Bridge.

[db3155]

subd for future reference

[Rybones]

Thank you PackRat. Again, great build. I have the same Starboard and space in my console so it will work perfectly for the Simrad. Great idea on the anged scuppers. Thanks for the answers and great pictures. I see in the picture of cap and liner inverted that it looks like you fit together peices of coosa re-core the raised platform and scraps or peices of material (Starboard and coosa orsomething else?) to re-core the wraparound-cap-deck, I figured you would have to redo that with solid or atleast much larger peices. Is it okay to use "peices" like that? Was it dificult getting the cap and liner out after you cut the main deck? And last question, how much foam did you have in the hull?

[PackRat]

I had left over 1/2” Coosa nautical 15 from a prior project so used that where thought was best for higher loaded areas and wasnt worried about a few lbs of added weight forward. Also put it under rod holders, cleats for better strength compared to the lower density core.

White stuff was 4lb foam that was kerf cut to make it conform to curves. Makes it easy to cut with shop knife to minimize waste.Pictures didn’t show next step after bonding to cap with Core-bond, trimmed to a line and beveled edges of foam so laminate would lay with no air bubbles.

Core here has little strength compared to laminate. It just creates thickness which increases stiffness for a given laminate top and bottom. My opinion is fitting pieces is fine for this as long as you have a good bond to laminate and minimize/eliminate air pockets.

Transom is a little different animal as the loads are large and need to take these and bolt loads from brackets and spread them out via laminate and a stronger stiffer core material. Used the Coosa Bluewater 26 on my transom. Think there are other similar products that would be fine that may be cheaper.

Youll have to estimate your areas as my purchase records dont account for scraps I already had...

Good luck

[uncleboo]

Spoke to my friend who is the purchasing agent for Albemarle Boats and I ended up ordering some Baltek coring material from him. It is similar to Coosa, just a tiny bit less money, but, no freight since they shipped it to his facility. I don't know much about it, except that they use it in the transoms and bulkheads in all of the boats they build. Must be OK stuff. Picking it up tomorrow.

[erebus]

Baltex Airex PXC is essentially the exact same stuff as Coosa Bluwater, just made by Airex.
Its what I use in transoms too, but only because its what Composite One keeps in stock. They dont have the Coosa bluewater 26 for some reason.
Actually, now that I think about it I think Airex owns Composites One or summat.
Regardless its the same stuff.

[strick]

Nice re do on the boat just catching up on some older threds...

strick