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  #31  
Old 01-20-2021, 08:09 AM
uncleboo uncleboo is offline
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Dang, dude! You've been busy!
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  #32  
Old 01-22-2021, 06:13 AM
strick strick is offline
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What are you referring to as the clamping board? Are you planning on mounting the bracket flush with the bottom of the boat? Are you planning on adding stringers to the bracket? What did you core the bracket with?

Strick
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  #33  
Old 01-22-2021, 12:00 PM
take a potter take a potter is offline
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Clamping board is the transom of the bracket. The bracket will sit 3" above the keel of the boat. I was planning on the top of the clamping board to be right at 34" off the keel of the boat. I do plan on adding stringers, I was planning on two, full height and about 3.5" wide, built on a foam core. The only part of the bracket tub that is cored is the clamping board. It is two pieces of 3/4" and one piece of 1/2" marine ply hot coated with neat epoxy and then laminated with epoxy, cabisol, cotton flocking mix spread with a 3/16 notched trowel and pulled together with lots of screws, later removed. The rest of the tub is about 3/8 thick mainly 1700 thicker at the corners. The front face is thinner except the perimeter 5-6" where the bolts will go thru. That is about 7/16"
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  #34  
Old 01-23-2021, 10:48 AM
strick strick is offline
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Ok got it...been a while since i built a bracket...just trying to get a handle on all the new terminology lol..sounds like you are on the right track...I’m sure it will come out ok...things to consider...putting the stringers in prior to removing it from the mold..using composite such as core cell...very light weight and work great for the stringers. You are going to want to be able to glass the swim platform to the tub inside and out otherwise it will crack where the bonding putty is and leak...

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  #35  
Old 01-27-2021, 06:59 PM
take a potter take a potter is offline
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Marked the center line of the boat transom and the bracket. Used a squeegee with a small hole drilled in it to mark a repeatable spot on the chine corners. Drilled a small hole and then using a stick with a pencil and screw inserted, struck arcs. Connected the intersections to get the center line.

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Got the bracket mounted with just 3 bolts. Wanted it in place to verify the height to trim the clamping board.

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Got it trimmed, next step is to template the platform.
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  #36  
Old 01-31-2021, 04:59 PM
take a potter take a potter is offline
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Got the form/mold made for the platform, minus the final clay radii on my curves. I decided to do it a little different and not create a hood to go over the clamping board, but rather glass the back of the platform to the face of the clamping board. The front lip of the platform will be let into the front of the tub and glassed over. Also, tried something different for the radii at least on the straight sections. I got a couple of pieces of pvc cove molding from Lowes and ripped the excess wall thickness off. Also beveled it, where necessary, to 12 degrees. Used hot glue to attach it. If it works out it sure was easier than running clay. Used a cut up plastic feed bucket for my curves.

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  #37  
Old 02-20-2021, 05:51 PM
take a potter take a potter is offline
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Despite the cold snowy weather got a little bit accomplished.

Got the platform core cut and test fit.

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Got the holes cut for the deck plates, I'll be using the 10" Armstrong plates.

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Installed 2 stringers in the tub.

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And got the platform laid up and popped out of the mold.
Need to do some more work on the deck plate cut outs and build up for and glass in an aluminum backing plate to catch the mounting bracket for a sport ladder.

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Making progress.
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  #38  
Old 02-20-2021, 07:32 PM
NoBones NoBones is offline
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Talk about dedication.
Keep going.
I admire your determination..
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  #39  
Old 02-20-2021, 10:01 PM
Kwaugh5p Kwaugh5p is offline
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Looking great.
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  #40  
Old 02-24-2021, 07:06 PM
take a potter take a potter is offline
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Got the main tank(150 gallon) pulled out today. As well as the sole on both sides cut out. Almost 65 degrees so I also got some fairing done on the transom and bracket.

Still need to take out the floor compartment immediately in front of the console. I plan on reusing so I cut around it for now. It currently and will continue to hold a 30gal fuel tank.

Really a shame to remove the whole sole. Other than 3 or 4 soft spots it was in great shape. However, every year I find another crack or void in the gelcoat so it was just a mater of time. The soft spots have all shown up in the last 3 years.

I am undecided on whether to include a hatch/cover over the main fuel tank(which is how it was), or just make the sole solid and maybe etch a cut line into it for future access. My initial plan was to make the sole solid, but it sure would be easier to install the sole if there was a cutout. However since the tank runs under the console, tank removal would require the console and leaning post to come out anyway. I have a few days to think about it before starting to template the sole.

If anyone has a neat way to build the sole without a hatch/cover, but still set yourself up for the future removal, I would love to hear it.

Have no idea what I did to stretch the picture, but you all get the idea.

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