72 20’ SF Rebuild In RI

[Scottman]

I used Coosa 20, because I did not realize there was a 26 when I bought it. I had to rent a truck and drive to Maine to pick it up. Not sure if I would use the 26 if I had to do it over again. When you hit the 20 with a hammer it surely does not dent very easily.

I have started doing core replacement on the under deck storage boxes and the bottom of the cap. I am using 1/2 Scored Divinycell. I decided to leave the original balsa coring, at the bow, as I am a little worried about losing the shape of the crown in the deck. It looks like it will be after thanksgiving before I get the cap and bow liner back in the hull.

Still making it up as I go along.

[steel686]

I think you are on the right track with the core at the bow. I left the first 4 feet of my liner in because i was worried about losing control of the flare. I ended up having an issue blending at the cut line after coring the liner. I wouldn't have had that obviously if I had taken the liner out in one piece. What I did come across was a lot of wet balsa from neglected fastener holes. I cut the top skin out and dug out everything I could reach. I packed the voids with as much thickened epoxy as I could trowel in then worked pre-fitted and wetted out Divinycell in as far as I could get. Not perfect but feels pretty solid. Spent alot of time tuning the crown with a longboard. Maybe you could make a radius jig for the top before you dig out the core.

[steel686]

Sorry. Just read that again and it sounds like you don’t need to remove it if it’s solid. Looks great by the way. Worth all the effort in the end.

[fishstu]

Very impressive rebuild - You will be very happy with the boat - all the effort will be worth it. I have yet to ride on a 20 footer that has the SC "sweet spot" hull characteristic of ride softness and drift stability.

[jorgeinmiami]

I took the cap off mine because all the wood was rotted and most of the foam was either gone or crap. I recorded the different areas with wood and re- foamed the rest. One thing I regret not doing is to seal the foamed in area with a layer of glass.

[Scottman]

Haven’t posted in a while, here is where I am at.
I have gone over the whole interior of the hull with a layer of 1708.
Bow liner is back in bedded in thickened epoxy. Used pop rivets to hold it in place while the epoxy kicked.


I am now trying to fix all the gaffs along the top edge from removing it.
Installed a 3/4” Coosa bulkhead for the forward end of the tank and have ordered a tank from Atlantic Coastal Welding. Tank will be 44 gallons and will be attached to a Coosa bulkhead at the back. Not sure why the second picture is upside down

[Scottman]

When I cored the underside of the cap, I built in a little to much curve and the cap is now riding about 3/4” high in one area. I can push it down and hold it in place with one hand, but am worried that I will develop stress cracks down the road.
I have two choices;
Fasten it down and keep moving.
Put a few kerf cuts (8-12” apart) thru the bottom glass and core. Drop it back down and fill the cuts with thickened epoxy and cover them with 6” wide strips of 1708. Will this cause visible steps in the flow of the deck.

So many people on this sight know far far more than I about fiberglass boat repairs, so please let me know what you think.

Sorry pics are upside down.

[Scottman]

About 60lbs of force to push the cap down.

[JBASS02]

I had to push and pull mine to get it back on and how I wanted it. Roughly one year in and no stress cracks. More experience guys may say something else.

[dirtwheelsfl]

Put a weight on it and glass it!