Wiring surprise

[McGillicuddy]

Finally getting around to rewiring the Seafari and wanted to check everything out so I've been unwrapping anything that looks funky and here is what I found on the 6 ga going to fuse panel... It was working, but... Is this original or someone's creative splice? Looks like a bolt w/slot thru it, a soldered nut, and a ceramic fuse between the 6ga and the 12ga...It was well wrapped in self-fusing tape and looks clean but I think the wire is less than appropriate for bouncing around off-shore. I expect more of the same on the neg cable above it. Is this a common approach, or did this guy work for an electrical contractor?

Any thoughts?

I've ordered a bunch of cable, wire, panels and fuses from Ancor and Blue Sea Systems but not sure where to start after tear out. I have the Calder book and the Sherman book but could really use some real world pics from some of you guys that have done this on a Seacraft. Can any of you post some pics of your recent rewires? Thanks

[Dilligaf]

those are slip bolts basically wire nuts for larger gauge wire. use them for pole lights and stuff with larger gauge wire. they should be wrapped with rubber tape and then electrical tape if done right should be ok i guess but i wouldnt spice if i didnt have to.

[ScottM]

I would run the positive leads from the fuse block to a terminal block and connect the 6 awg to it with a ring terminal. Looks like something similar is going on with the negative wire too (wrapped in tape).

[eggsuckindog]

Never seen that but looks OK

[McGillicuddy]

Thanks for the feedback. Slip-bolt, huh, is that for house wiring or just a common connector for different sized wired? Is that thing between the wires a fuse? It did work fine, ESD, as you can see by the 4 blown fuses, plenty of power getting there. Just a bunch of bad grounds...I've been tracing wire and found a lot of errors but now I have everything working except the Klaxon horn. Only a pos and a neg terminal on it, but I haven't figured it out - maybe the compressor is shot. My plan is to scrap it all, and go with a Blue Sea ST Blade fuse block to tinned type 3 6 ga AWG wire w/tinned, closed heatshrink terminals, to separate pos & neg mini buses at the stern, and then to a Blue Sea acr/si like Rhody98 pictured in his Seafari wiring post. Any pics you guys might have of your distribution would be helpful as I'm still debating the final approach... Thanks again. -- McGill

[Dilligaf]

it is a proper way for makeing joints and no its not a fuse.

[McGillicuddy]

Roger that, Dilligaf, I just took it apart and found it was a "pressure/connectivity plate" of sorts. Pretty cool, really, probably the best preserved electrical connection on the boat. I've never seen that before. Is that a typical marine application or is it used for other applications like automotive or housing connections?

[Dilligaf]

i guess you could use it in any situation it is a NEC certified way to splice but ive only done it in parking lot pole lights..

[76Red18]

I replaced everything but the motor's wiring harness. I wanted the system as weather-proof as possible so I put the fuse and terminal blocks in weather proof boxes. Those 2 fuse holders are easy access for the 2 independently wired bilge pumps.


I used most of the products you mentioned. The system is almost 4 years old and I've never had to replace a blown fuse or reset a circut breaker;( Knock on an old wooden boat ). That long terminal block is a disconnect point if I ever need to remove the center console.


Rocker switch/ circut breaker panel

[McGillicuddy]

That is sweet work, Esteemed Red 18, thanks for the post. I was gonna go red & black with labels but the color coding route you chose sure is easier to follow... far more professional, too. Might have to get some color going Where'd you mount your battery switch? got pics of that arrangement? Thanks again.