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Old 07-24-2017, 12:58 PM
Gulfstreammarine Gulfstreammarine is offline
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Default 1978 23' potter restoration in progress. Transom questions

Looking for some input: have most restorations been cutting out all the core of the transom and starting from scratch or just leaving that filling in everything and than bolstering up with coosa board to strengthen. I am putting a full Armstrong bracket a 4" atlas jackplate and new Yamaha f300 when done. And of course I am closing the transom in and getting rid of in floor livewell and splashwell and making more deck space. Any input provided I appreciate. Thanks
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Old 07-24-2017, 01:16 PM
kmoose kmoose is offline
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Pull and toss the deck up to the step and replace with 3/4 Nidacore. Add runners to raise the deck 2.5-3". Transom build: double 3/4 Coosa Bluewater 26 tabbed into the floor.

I would also consider a Hermco twins outboard bracket. They were designed to fit our boats and you never have to deal with corrosion issues. It also lets you go with a 30" motor. Bracketed boats are notorious for holding the motors low in the water. 30" motor stays high and dry and looks fine.
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Old 07-24-2017, 05:46 PM
Old'sCool Old'sCool is offline
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You should take time to read Double Thyme's thread on THT.
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Old 07-24-2017, 09:19 PM
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Capt Chuck Capt Chuck is offline
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Moose
I understand wet feet issues on a 20", I question raising the deck on a 23 Potter------> why ?
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Old 07-25-2017, 02:40 PM
Gulfstreammarine Gulfstreammarine is offline
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Does anyone know if the stringers are made out of wood or are foam filled? I am making the logical guess that they are wood of course but seeing if anyone know for sure. They are in fantastic shape no cracks or delamination so I really think I am just going to leave them as is and not replace them. Any input?
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Old 07-25-2017, 04:30 PM
kmoose kmoose is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt Chuck View Post
Moose
I understand wet feet issues on a 20", I question raising the deck on a 23 Potter------> why ?
23's have wet feet issues if you don't put the plugs in when people are on the back. This is exaggerated when using big 4 strokes and brackets. If I was building a CC I don't think I would install a bracket due to CG issues. The Scepter/Tsunami do much better due to their weight forward layout.

Gulf,
Yes the stringers are glass and foam.
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Old 07-25-2017, 07:31 PM
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Capt Chuck Capt Chuck is offline
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Quote:
23's have wet feet issues if you don't put the plugs in when people are on the back.*
Maybe with original thru hull scupper design, but running them out the transom without raising the deck works beautifully. I ran my '78 for over 30 years (scuppers out the transom), Many fat boys on board in all sea conditions without issues. I prefer higher gunwhales.I know your a diver but 2"-3" makes big difference if you like deep jiggin and stand up fish fighting.
Anyway, whichever route he chooses will work.
No spitting match here amigo!
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as "Americans" you have the right to ......
"LIFE, LIBERTY and the PURSUIT of a Classic SeaCraft" -capt_chuck
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Old 07-25-2017, 07:45 PM
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You can see by this picture the original thru transom scuppers. After the transom enclose and bracket install, I was able to still move them up 2" + without raising the original deck.
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"LIFE, LIBERTY and the PURSUIT of a Classic SeaCraft" -capt_chuck
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  #9  
Old 08-04-2017, 06:53 PM
Gulfstreammarine Gulfstreammarine is offline
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Updated progress

Transom core is all cutout, wood rot in top half bottom half was in still good condition but all of it had to go of course. Going to go with two 1 1/2 pieces of coosa board for the new core of the transom custom cut by boat outfitters. Beefing up the aft stringers and tabbing in the new coosa to the deck. Closing transom in completely. Going to build in a fish box/cooler into middle of new transom. Gas Tank is being pulled this week and cleaned and sealed and re-installed and the rest of the deck is being cutout up to the bow step. Redoing deck with 3/4" coosa board. Open to all suggestions and other mods and recommendations while in the process...what works what doesn't... Thanks.
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