Whitewater Interior Progress - Page 2

Bryan A. · #11 03-21-2006, 08:21 PM

The spainish one was bought at a local harware stop, looked like it had been on the shelf for years. It was purple and the bristles were actually brass. It worked well but after I blew through that I tried the one from sears and it lasted about 15 min. So then I went back to the same local guy and he had one left. That one lasted a good while but eventually went to hell. Went back to the store and the new ones he had were all cheepies, made in china (for the same price). So I opted for one for 9$ from a tool wholesale store that one lasted OK but not as well as the Spanish one. Problem is I can't find them anywhere, not even online. They were packed under the name of Shark Welding. I now need to purchase a 5th one to finish up I have a few more spots on the ceiling to do and it is done for that phase.
I was tempted to try the twisted type but thought it might be to aggressive, If I did I probably would have used the same one from start to finish. Are you doing a large area or small. Sears did have various adapters to go between tools, if that helps. Let me know how you make out, pics don't hurt either.

Have you checked out the Long Island Sound gatherings thread yet?

abl1111 · #12 03-21-2006, 11:20 PM

Thx. The "aggressive" wire brush made me worry that I would be removing the glue along with a hell of a lot of glass, which I do not want to do. If you were to re-do, would you us that style of wire brush ?

I have to remove 'some' residual glue in the cabin of my 23' Tsunami. I removed the old shag carpet a year or so ago, bought replacement stuff and just have not had the chance/time to finalize securing all the wiring that runs in and around through there - I want all the wiring to be accessable mounted on top of the carpet.

Also removed all the bow rail screws and ground out from within the cabin, all the wet wood from the bow rail screws leaking - re-glassed these areas thicker (no wood now) so there will be nothing to rot, even if there is future water intrusion. Bitchy job 'cause the angle of the cabin ceiling and the hull get real narrow near the toerail ( a dremel with a fiberglass cutting blade made it work in the tight spots ).

I would love to just wipe the glue residue off with a thinner of some sorts, but feel the fumes would do a lot of damamge - even more than college did

Bryan A. · #13 04-10-2006, 10:47 AM

OK, vacation again, time to move ahead in larger strides. Here are some pics of what I have been up to over the past month.

The first pic is the panel I put in to allow more mounting of stuff.

The second are the cleats put in to accept the box that is going to cover all the wires.

And the rest are of the beam that I will be laminating in place out of 1/4" mohaghany to support the forward deck which flexes a little. Its not soft, it is just un supported. After the beam is built it will be passed through a jointer to clean up the sides. The laminations should look sharp all varnished up.

Don't mind the mess.

Bryan A. · #14 04-10-2006, 10:50 AM

Sorry about the big pics, forgot to resize.

abl1111 · #15 04-10-2006, 12:01 PM

FYI:

On my 23 Tsunami, there was a stock peice of wood covering the wires, steering etc. You had to unscrew it each time you wanted to get in there. I pulled the pc off, cut out a door, put hinges on, a hasp and it is a much easier, smarter way to get in there.

If I were you, I would box out the way you are doing and install a large door. I even put a 12V light in there so I can see what's going on in there day or night.

Oh yeah: wire brush - Would you recommend the aggressive, really "rope-y" wire brush to remove glue ?
Thx

Bryan A. · #16 04-10-2006, 03:20 PM

I am planning an access door to get at the fuse panel and the rest will be removable for larger work, 12v light too.

I stayed away from the rope style brush because I felt it was to agressive, but I also went trough 5 of the straight type. I have not had experience with the twisted ones so I guess it is your call. I thought the twisted type would remove to much glass. Maybe if I tried that first I would have the same one still.

Bryan A. · #17 05-09-2006, 09:26 PM

Here are a few more shots of the deck beam I have been laminating. It is just about done and needs a coat of epoxy befor it is pemanently bonded into the boat. It is made up of 1/4 mohaghany strips and west epoxy. The light color wood is a piece of maple that I threw in for Ed Mancini.

By the way how did that rocket launcher come out? Actually I like the contrast and it accents the curve of the Deck from inside. And we all like good curves. When finished it will be covered with a spar varnish over a coating of epoxy. Hope to have it in this weekend. Here are some pics.

strick · #18 05-10-2006, 01:43 AM

Thats very cool. Your are taking the extra time to do quality work. It will make a big difference when it is complete. How did you make the initial curve in the three bottom pieces? Thanks for sharing the photos

strick

Bryan A. · #19 05-10-2006, 08:27 AM

I started from the top down. I used pieces of wood to prop up the first four layers from the top down without bonding it to the deck. When that dried I added the side pieces, then drew a fair curve and cut that on the band saw. The final three pieces, mohag, maple, mohag. Were bonded in place one at a time as not to distort the original curve. Then the whole lot was passed over a jointer to clean up the epoxy and the exposed edges are routed with a 1/4" round over. I will try to post some more pics this evening if you are interested.