Floor and transom

[Moose]

Hey guys. I'm about to restore the floor and enclose the transom on my 74 23sf. Should I cut the floor out and replace, or should I just pull the inner shell and get rid of it all together? Would it create issues with the structural integrity of the hull? Also, how should I brace the hull for pulling the cap? I've read that seacraft have a tendency to sag a bit.

[Bushwacker]

The inner liner adds a significant amount of torsional stiffness to the hull, so i would be very cautious about removing it. If you'll notice on the 20' CC models, there are no openings in the side of the inner liner in the aft section of the hull and I believe that's because it significantly stiffens the hull. Knowledgeable guys who have removed the inner liner have compensated by installing 1/2" balsa core covered by a layer of fiberglass to the inside of the hull sides. Regarding sagging, the SeaCraft fiberglass stringer system is very stiff because the cockpit sole is bonded to the top of the stringers, basically creating an I-beam structure. The only sagging I've heard about is that when guys remove the top cap, if they don't install some cross beams, the hull sides will tend to bow outward if there is nothing to support them.

[Moose]

Thanks for the input, I'm gonna leave it in.

[Islandtrader]

I have seen a couple of ways...
one is to fit a 2x4's inside the hull and the attach them by screwing thru the outside of the hull...if you are doing glass work this should not be a big deal.

The second way is to notch 2x4's (measure first) when you pull the cap then place the 2x4's over the top of the hull to keep from spreading.

I am no expert so, do your home work. I am sure plenty of "experts" will chime in.
Have fun LOL

[Moose]

This is my first time so any info is appreciated. I don't want to screw this up

[Old'sCool]

Double Tyme on THT is rebuilding his and removed the liner. Check it out. He's local and I visited when he first started and looks good. Not sure about liner removed though.

[Outrageous]

Bushwacker is right on. If you are not going to use the liner core the sides with Balsa. I have done this on a few different hulls and it made a huge difference in rigidity without adding a lot of weight. The key is to pre coat the balsa with whatever resin you want to use so you don't get a dry layup because that creates a poor bond. Then thicken the resin and apply using a notched trowel and bed the pre cut balsa to the hull sides. You can cut the balsa with a utility knife and it conforms to curved surfaces well. Cover with
fiberglass and finish with gelcoat or paint. Ill try and dig up a few pics.

[FAS]

nice shots,dont see inboards too often

[vintage23]

I have a 23 invoard that I'm restoring. I see your floor, which is modified. Do you have additional pics? I noticed you changed the forward floor hatches and sealed off the battery hatch. How does your console fold? To the bow? Can you get to the batteries easily enough with you configuration?