And away we go...

[CHANCE1234]

It's all glassed back together. I'm gonna have some fairing to do, as I have more valleys than hills bit it's got 5 layers of glass on it, mat, woven, mat, woven, mat. Started with the biggest piece first and ended with a 1 inch strip. The pictures suck but I can't get but 2 feet behind the boat for a wide angle.

[Sheldrake]

Looks good Chance! I've just started to do the same on a 1974 20ft CC. I'm wondering, some pictures look like your using composite board then others look like plywood,curious which you chose because i need to decide.Also are you raising the height of the transom ?

[CHANCE1234]

I'm using marine grade plywood. It may look like composite in some shots cause its wicked dusty. I did raise the transom to 25 inches, in the last picture you can see the old transom height and the new (top of plywood). I decided on plywood cause of price. The last wood core transom lasted for 40 years. If I need a new transom in half that time, I'll be pleased. Good luck, I tried to document it as best as I could but let me know if you have any questions. No expert, but I can pass on my experiences.

[hugo]

looking good Chance.

[CHANCE1234]

I've got a question for those of you that have used hull and deck putty and poly fair from Mertons. Like I said above, after glassing the old skin back on, I have more valleys than hills around the seem. Hull and deck is considerably stronger than poly fair so I was thinking I could fill my valleys with hull and deck as the first layer of fairing and then sand and begin using the poly fair to make everything perfect. Or should I glass more strips along the seem to build it up? Thanks guys

[CHANCE1234]

For those that have raised the transom to 25 inches and reused the exterior skin...how did you build up the fiberglass in the 5 inch area that has no skin? Did u wrap the glass from the back of the boat up over the top of the cut out and into the splashwell? Or did you build up each area individually? Thanks for the help. I know wrapping the glass over the top will be hard with the 90 degree angles. Thanks

[parrott]

You might what to take a router to the edges for the motor cutout. A layer of 1708 and 12oz mat together will usually bend good enough. Build the glass up on the outside and then maybe your last layer of glass(1708&12oz) wrap over into slashwell. If it were me I would grind off more gelcoat on the outside where u will be building up the glass. Basically so your last couple sheets of glass will overlap onto the original transom glass and cover more area. And grind the edge of the original glass where the wood extends up so it transitions from the glass to wood nicely, and makes for a stronger joint and less air.

[parrott]

And the seam where you glassed the old skin on, dont be afraid to sand down all the surrounding gelcoat to try and smooth out the seam first before u use any fairing comp. Not much gelcoat left not to just sand it all off.

[CHANCE1234]

Thanks parrot, all the transoms I've seen are not routered so I was curios if guys did wrap the glass or not. The way you said to do it is definitely stronger then glassing each area individually.

Should the transom be exactly 25 inches to the keel? Mine is just over 26 right now and before I glass I want to make sure I have the exact height I need. Thanks. My measurement is from the cutout along the back of the transom to the bottom, not vertically "hanging". What's the right way or does it matter?

[CHANCE1234]

Got the raised portion of the transom glassed today. Tomorrow I'll start fairing and sanding. The last few layers were tied into the existing skin.