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#141
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Layer of glass over the fairing. Once it cures I'll sand then one more fair and final sand
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#142
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1st coat of primer. Not perfect by any means but plenty solid.
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#143
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My new toy, garmin 740S with airmar 20 degree tilted thru hull. P.S. 100 bucks off starting March 7th at WM. and the $300 fancy card is only gonna be $100 with mail in rebate.
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#144
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I removed an old transducer tonight and will put the new ducer in the same spot after I drill a larger hole. The hull thickness in the location is about 1/4 inch. Is this thickness about right for the 20s? The hole is about 18 inches forward of the stern starboard side of keel by about 6 inches. The old ducer was so old the wire had either rotted off or been cut at some point. Any one recognize the make of transducer and its approx age. There was a transom mount ducer which was being used when I bought it.
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#145
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Got the engine hung. Which means the transom is done done. I still need to get the extension kit. Right now the cav. Plate is 4 inches above the keel, so I'll probably taise the engine up 2 maybe 3 holes.
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#146
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I raised the engine up so now the cav plate is 6 inches above the keel so when I get the 5 inch extension it hopefully will be perfect! I'm debating on buying one online that "should" work according to the local merc dealer or spending $600 on one that will definitely work. The other one is about half the price of the bay manufacturer one?
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#147
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I installed the 50 gallon fuel tank today and ran the supply, fill and vent lines. I also put in the bilge pump. Up next, clean the bilge and start putting the deck back in. Am I missing anything before I start to put the deck back in?
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#148
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There is a huge "belly" in the vent line for your fuel tank. This will be a problem. What will happen is the first time you completely fill your fuel tank, fuel will flow into the vent line and fill that "belly", and stay there, plugging the vent line. With a plugged vent line, as you try to fill the tank, air will "burp" up thru the fill hose, usually splattering fuel on everything and everyone near the fuel fill. From the pics, I'm assuming your fill will be on the console.
The vent line should run continuously uphill to as high up the gunwale as possible, then back down to the vent on the side of the hull. This loop at the top helps keep seawater from entering the tank. There are inline check valves that do this, but I'm not a big fan. Keep us posted, you are getting close to being back on the water! Lloyd
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1973 Seacraft 20' SF "Sea Dog" 1988 Tracker/Seacraft 23' WA "Salty Dog" |
#149
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as it is now, the fuel vent runs to starboard than aft about 2 feet, thru the stringers than up to the starboard gunwhale. Should I drill a new hole thru the stbd stringers directly across from the vent on the tank and then up to the gunwhale outlet? There would still be a "belly" where i have to go down thru my new hole in the stringer but not as big. Otherwise i'll have to vent to the side of the console and smell fuel all the time. Thank you for your insight.
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#150
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Even a slight belly will cause problems. From what I see in the pics, you will need to cut notches on the top of the stringers (of course this means more glass work) to get the vent hose to the starboard side. Or you may be able to run the vent hose forward, then to starboard behind the inner liner between the bulkhead/step for the casting platform and the fishbox, then back aft under the rodholders. The problem with this is it wil be difficult to secure the hose in the areas behind the inner liner, not to mention it will be a much longer run.
Again, you do not want any place where the hose dips down, then back up again. This will cause venting issues. I had a RIB tender on one of the yachts I ran that had the fuel tank vent on the side of the console. I never smelled gas, except when fueling. Good luck. Lloyd
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1973 Seacraft 20' SF "Sea Dog" 1988 Tracker/Seacraft 23' WA "Salty Dog" |
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