#161
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Get down to wallyworld and getba stamp. I got plenty o guns if you want too. If not, I'm thinking Thursday looks good. If you can make a weekday, we can meet up somewhere North of Davis and hit the club in Willows.
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20' Mako 175 'rude Sacto, CA looking for a landlocked 23'-25' Seacraft http://classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=13979 |
#162
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Shoot this week is tough. Lisa's birthday is Thursday and I took and Friday off to go and do something with her. Also got some last minute shopping to do. Next week I have the kids but they are out of school so after Christmas I'm good to go. I can make a week day if I plan ahead as this time of year work slows down due to the holidays. Call me as I would love to go and kill something with a gun instead of a needle and syringe. The Honkers fly over my house every evening
925-354-2843 strick |
#163
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Well Happy Birthday Lisa! Sounds good! I still have your # after Xmas is a go....
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20' Mako 175 'rude Sacto, CA looking for a landlocked 23'-25' Seacraft http://classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=13979 |
#164
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Hermco- RIP for The Bud Man, he was a cool looking cat
Work has slowed down a bit allowing me to make a little more progress on the boat. After months of grinding and sanding I am mostly done now with all that grunt work. So I have been ordering parts. First to come in was the rub rail. Taco marine part # v21-9613 rigid vinyl. I could not wait to get it on the boat. A little bribing and I got my 14 year old son to help me out. Next on the list was to get the bilge cleaned up and painted. I had some left over duratec high gloss additive laying around so I used it up. 50/50 with white gel coat. What a difference a clean bilge makes! The glass was removed from the window frames and I sanded them down with 220 grit. There was a little pitting in a few spots due to some of the ss hardware that was attached to them. I filled them with some quick fair and re sanded them. Then cleaned and etched with system 3 and primed with Awlgrip 545. The next day they were ready for paint. A diesel heater helps keep the shop nice and toasty as the temps have been in the low 50's These are the bolts I'm waiting on to mount the windows. They are from American marine which is now owned by Pompanette. There is a new guy answering the phone and he did not know what I was talking about. First he said they did not have them and I said you got to have them! so I sent him a picture and he was able to find me a pack of 20. I dont know where else you could find these special bolts. |
#165
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More pics of a messy shop. I also got the hatches and livewell cover painted.
Some outside pictures of the boat with the new rub rail. It's been raining a lot. strick |
#166
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Sweet!! Love your work!
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#167
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Looking Awesome!!!!!!
Be interesting to see it with the windshield back on after all this time.
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May all your deadrise be variable. My 1973 SeaCraft 20SF Parker 2530 DVEC Boston Whaler 15 1984 |
#168
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Did you have any trouble bending the s/s around the stern corners? How did you do it?
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] "If You Done It...It Ain't Braggin" my rebuild thread: http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ad.php?t=18594 |
#169
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Looking good Strick..........it is very cool to see SeaCraft models that have rarely made their appearances on our web site over the years get the royal treatment by you! The interest in owning a 20 Sceptre has now gone up by a 1000%.
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Snookerd |
#170
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Thanks guys. It's rewarding to see the vision come to reality after all the hard work is winding to an end. I've been racking my head on the seating right now. I'm going back and forth with either custom helm seats on a fiberglass base with a seat cushion on the back or just buying a couple of those back to back folding lounge seats.
Terry no problem with bending the SS insert around the corners it is flexible enough if you use a rubber mallet and have someone hold up the end while you work the corner being careful to tell the other person to pull up or down so it stays in it's track while you beat it with the rubber mallet. The rigid vinyl needs to be heated with a heat gun and it contours easily. You will get a little dimple on the bottom that needs to be trimmed off (see pic below) and then fill with calk any gap there may be at the corners. The rub rail fits nice and snug on the straight sections no calk needed but I will put a small bead of clear silicone around the top and bottom just to ensure that no water will get in. strick |
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