Thru hull scuppers ... How did ya fix em - Page 2

Scott · #11 06-29-2002, 12:03 AM

JohnB
That had actually crossed my mind before. I think if you do it that way I would try to angle the drains towards the stern of the boat as far as you can without tangling with the corner of the boat (instead of right through the side where the scupper is currently located). You would also need some sort of flap over the opening to keep the ocean out.....I dont think those cone scuppers with the ball in them would look to cool sticking out the side of the boat. Another concern of mine if going through the transom is tangling with a bracket as some of the brackets would seemingly attach in the same area as the scuppers exit.

Speaking of brackets.....whats up ??? is something up with the transom???? What bracket are you going after ....

Miles Offshore · #12 06-29-2002, 08:20 AM

Scott, flaring tool was what you describred but homemade.Very Simple tool. I think it has made its way around the seacraft community in Hampton Roads here. I will see if I can get the exact details,drwg for here if you like. craig

JohnB · #13 06-29-2002, 05:12 PM

Scott,
I haven't got a clue as to how I am going to do it, but it seems every time a hole gets put in a transom, water penetrates around it. Also, I am tired of wet feet when fishing 3 or 4 in the back. If I put the drains in the floor with a anti flow back valve facing down, and then out to the side thru conventional holes/fittings, I should be ok as long as they are above the waterline. If I go with the hermco bracket, it should add 450 pounds or so of positive floatation, and that would lift the back a couple of inches. I would put some kind of emergency valve that I could shut off in there. I have seen alot of boats that just drain to the bilge. If I fill the transom, maybe that would not be such a bad idea (boat is trailered mostly), and usually out of the water. My transom is not shot, but it is getting a little tired and has some water penetration around some home-grown scullpers that where put in before I got it. Also, the screws around the trim on the top let some water in (bad idea from seacraft). Maybe I will put the hermco bracket on with their transome enclosure and see how the boat sets and drains. The long term plan is to finish off the transom in the back with a bait well/station, and a folddown bench seat. I want to get rid of the splash well completly.
Any comments, suggestions, or ideas would be appreciated. I am going to take a picture of a fishing partners 23' Winner transom that is solid, and you will see what I am trying to do.
Thanks for the input

Scott · #14 06-30-2002, 01:13 AM

Miles
That would be great... anything you've got.....After I get that tube back in there I dont want to crush the tube when it gets/I attempt to "flare" it over. [img]images/icons/cool.gif[/img]

Chap · #15 07-02-2002, 12:42 PM

Hello,
I happened across this thread during my enjoyment of this site.
Take a look at page 608 on Boatfix.com for a shot of the flanging tool and some tubes.

http://www.boatfix.com/bykeyword.ASP...ube&B18=Search

Thanks
Chap

Scott · #16 07-02-2002, 07:25 PM

Hey Chap
Thanks for that.....I have that big old catalog sitting right here and didnt go thru its 1,000 pages......Still trying to figure out why boatfix doesnt give you the actual cost of the item in the catalog as all of the prices in the catalog are alot more than online.......Like that Flanging tool is $37 and change (which is way better than what I saw one for) and on-line its way better at $26.....Thats not to bad!!!!

Thanks again!!! [img]images/icons/wink.gif[/img] [img]images/icons/cool.gif[/img]

white hawk · #17 07-07-2002, 06:41 PM

John B, thru hull penetrations can be done easily if you use a hole saw with an extra long pilot drill. Drill your pilot hole completely through transom at the thru hull location. With hole saw larger than thru hull (say for example 1-1/2" for a 1/4" hole)Drill from inside removing material up to exterior skin. Now you have a small hole outside and a big hole inside. Fill the inside hole with thickened fiberglass putty(add some glass fiber if you want)and seal with plastic wrap and pressure bandage(ply scrap)You can drywall screw the bandage to the transom temporarily. When cured, put FG patch on inside over puttied section, when that's cured you can drill your thru-hull through this plug. You now have a FG plug that will not allow water to migrate to wood.I have used this method for thu-hulls up to 4" in diameter (inboard exhaust) with no leaks and no water migration to wood. It works.

EBEACH · #18 03-02-2003, 10:41 PM

Scott, did you finish your scupper work? If so, how did it all work out? I've got plastic ones, and I have a feeling I'll be messing with them once I have the liner out for the transom work.

Thanks, Jim

SECF3114M73J · #19 03-02-2003, 11:52 PM

I've replaced my scuppers twice.A freind of mine who also owns a 23 ft'er is a plumber.He has a flaring tool made out of threaded rod, the piece that does the flaring is bell shaped. The tricky thing is that the hull where the bottom of the scupper is,is like a wedge, so the tube is not squarely seated. For brass tubes we used toilet stand pipes.The pipes come in 2 diameters, the bigger size is the one to use,don't remember but I think they are 3/4" dia. Be careful not to cut the tubes to long,if you do they will split when you flare them.

[ March 02, 2003, 10:55 PM: Message edited by: SECF3114M73J ]

Scott · #20 03-02-2003, 11:58 PM

Hi Jim

Well I have the tube from whaler and at the moment, in an attempt to get this thing in the water ASAP, I'm just replacing the scuppers as is (my original ones were brass.....) I still want to go out the hull sides or transom (instead of through the deck and bottom of the boat) but not until I know what I'm doing with the transom .... In other words .... No scupper changes this year