Transom is OUT - do preventive maintenance

[Ed]

A Mako owner,a Seacraft owner and a Contender owner walk into a bar for some burgers and beers. After listening to their "tall" fish tales, the Mako owner walks out with a huge smile and a fat wallet while the Seacraft and Contender owners drown their sorrows about their high priced boats

Ok gents....before you jump all over me, remember it is just a JOKE and a new Mako isnt much less than a new Seacraft.

ABL111-

I am in the process of replacing all of my thru-hull fittings in the transom area. All are being seated with 5200 and the exposed wood epoxied. Some were plastic, some were bronze. In my experience, a lot of wet transoms are due to the usual unsealed transducer screws, etc....but I think a biggest culprit is always the swim ladder. Step on a new one and see how much it moves.....now add saltwater and time and even the best caulk job....the transom is still going to get wet. When I eventually redo my transom and raise it to 30 inches (it is solid as a rock now....knock on wood) I am scrapping the dopey swim ladder, and will make sure that all holes drilled through the new transom will be encapsulated with epoxy before any fittings, transducers or motors are bolted on.

[abl1111]

Ed,

Thx for your input. I tell you, I don't really trust 5200 anymore than other sealants. I don't know why, but it seems to be as susceptable to leaking as any other silicone/caulking material - and is a P.I.T.A. to remove...

I would rather use silicone and reseal every (2) years... Even better, I like the epoxy idea. I read the West System fiberglass repair manual and these guys seem to have sealing figured out. It is a lot of up front work, but over the long haul it is probably worth it. It's just that silicone or 5200, over time, will fail. And the repurcussions of that ' failure ' can be a bitch...

[RingLeader]

Ed, Where you been? Good follow-up on the joke. Ditto the swim ladder. Its the culprit. Good call.

abl1111, silicone=junk - west system epoxy=good long term projection - 5200 is head and shoulders above any other sealant IMHO, except when trying to bond the stuff to starboard. I put my motor on with 5200 and when I went to take the motor off, I removed the 4 bolts and the motor didn't budge. I let the tension off of the hydraulic motor hoist and it stayed put!!! To finally get the motor free, I had to use that anti-bond stuff and it didn't penetrate all of the 5200. So in those areas where the anti-bond didn't reach the sealant took the gelcoat and the first layer of fiberglass off with it!!!

[John R]

A Mako owner, a SeaCraft owner and a Contender owner walk into a bar....

And he had nobody to talk to but the blueberries were good (slightly inside followed by a very inside joke) [img]images/icons/shocked.gif[/img] [img]images/icons/tongue.gif[/img]

Hey Trayder - think we can scrounge up some Blueberries at the Newport Shindig? Not Mich or Bud but...

[ocuyler]

A Mako owner, a SeaCraft owner and a Contender owner walk into a bar. The Mako owner sits at the bar because his feet are killin him from the pounding he took on the mornings ride. The Contender owner has 2 doubles strait up cause he's p.o'd that he didn't by a SeaCraft. The SeaCraft owner (a CSC member) who renovated his Potter 23 CC and saved $40,000, bought all the drinks and got all the chicks cause they liked his "smooth ride". After several brews of choice (Corona), the chicks loved the 4 boat theory...

[ June 11, 2003, 11:39 PM: Message edited by: Otto Cuyler ]

[abl1111]

RL,

I had an experience w/ 5200 where it did not work out as well as your experience(s). The transom to hull joint on my 20 Grady ( under the outboard ) had a 1/8" gap where water was able enter. I cleaned it up really good ( degreased ) and used 5200 to close this potential transom rotter.

The next year, I saw that the 5200 had come away from the seal and was not keeping water out. I cleaned it all up, removing the 5200, and re-did with a 3M silicone. (4) years later all is still good.

My thought was that the 5200 could not take the small but constant movement/vibration of the meeting transom and hull - 5200 too rigid ?
The silicone was more pliable and able to. Note: personally I cannot see how this joint on the boat moves at all, cause the hull is pristine and solid, but I could not think of another reason.

Also, when I installed a thru-hull for my livewell, everyone in the marine industry told me to use silicone and not 5200. Who knows ? As for installing a motor to a transom, I would use 5200.

I would like to know when to use 5200 and not to.

[ocuyler]

All I can say about 5200 is:

PAPER TOWELS

[Ed]

RINGLEADER-

Hey Eddie....I've been working very hard on my boat. I should have some pics for you very shortly. Let's just say that I've spent a lot of time and too much money getting her ready. Wiring is a pain in the arse....especially for a rookie like me.

Otto- We'll have to test out your Mako vs Seacraft theory at Trayder's get together in August. In all honesty, I do love the looks/shear lines of a 23 Seacraft. Maybe someday, I'll own one too but for now the Mako 231 will have to do.

[Ed]

Abl111-

5200 as you said is very good for somethings and not so good for others. It really depends on the application and if you think you'll ever need to gain access again to what you're sealing.

If you think you may need to remove it at sometime use LIFESEAL (gas tank hatches, deck plates, above & below rubrails, etc) if not... 5200 away.

[ocuyler]

Ed,

Since none of my 4 boats are in the water and/or not ready, a Mako 231 would look good for rippin around on Father's Day.

The best boat is the one you're on...