Transom repair

[dcobbett]

Warthog5,

I agree. I was drawing those lines thinking about a reconfiguration similar to either of these examples.
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[dcobbett]

alarie,

Any advantage to grinding back (bevel) along both sides of the cut lines before you make the cuts?

[hermco]

I use the outside skin I cut off as a pattern for the new core wood. I add new glass to existing inner skin (2) 1708 biax and let cure. Backfill putty the edges and let cure. Then glued (1) - 3/4" and (1) - 1/2" ply together with (1) - 1 1/2 oz mat. Use drywall screws to hold together then remove when cured. Wet out (1) - 1 1/2 oz mat on inner skin and clamp new core in. Let cure then remove clamps and putty/grind. Glassed outside with (4) - 1708 biax and a 1 1/2 oz mat to finish. Roll Duratec base primer and sand flat,gelcoat,wet sand,etc.
I don't see any benefit to grinding before you begin because you will have to grind again after gluing the core in anyway to remove drips and excess putty etc. I don't care for the grinding part but it's gotta get done!

[warthog5]

The spot putty in this pix. What is it?




dcobbett I don't like boat's without a splashwell. I wouldn't have one without it here on the Gulf Coast.

[cSickNick]

Oh, now i remember that project.

Here is probably the only other approach besides the inside or outside;

http://www.classicseacraft.com/forum...er=8395&Forum=,,,,All_Forums,,,,&Words=&Searchpage=4&Limit=25&Ma in=8395&Search=true&where=bodysub&Name=251&dateran ge=1&newerval=&newertype=w&olderval=2&oldertype=y& bodyprev=#Post8395

And area's "A" on my boat was filled with puddy, that was old and cracked. Was not doing much except pieces were waiting to dive into the bilge.

I do not recomment the chain saw (i originally thought of pouring that Sea-Cast stuff) so it was unnessary once i decided to cut the inside liner. There was plently of room to remove the core with any primitave instruments of destruction(chisels etc)

Also this approach gives you the ability to bond new stringer knees into the core and glass all in as one.

Now decide on an approach and get to it, spring is on the way .....

- Nick

[alarie]

I like to grind first, I think you get a smoother surface when you go to glass it back up. As to the putty and grinding again, I always try and go for it in one step. In this case put in your plywood, putty all edges, squish on the transom face and clamp/screw into place, smooth out the putty on the bond line, wet out and glass your already perfectly flat bevel, peel ply and roll out the air bubbles.

This method is a lot less work, you just have to have your S@#! together before you get wet. It's all in the prep work and fitting. You are not gaining any time by rushing into glue and putty until you are ready to put it all down in one step.

As someone that does this almost every day, I can tell you that efficiency lies in eliminating steps. It may not seem like a big deal to glue on the face, then grind smooth, then glass, but I am already onto fairing the repair and you are still putting down glass.

I also think that you gain a lot of strength by having everything wet at the same time, instead of relying on secondary bonding between wet and dry elements.

As far as the grinding, the easiest way to do a good job is when the pieces are together, held in place by each other.

[dcobbett]

Thanks to everyone for all the input and good advice. I need to drill some more holes to find out the extent of my problems, decide how to approach the solution, then get started!

[hermco]

3M premiun filler a vinyl ester putty. Great stuff I have been using it for about 6 years now.

[hermco]

I like to grind first

As someone that does this almost every day, I can tell you that efficiency lies in eliminating steps.

I defer to the efficiency expert ........

[bobhoff]

I am new to this chat room so perhaps this has been already addressed. Can anyone advise what, if any, telltale sign indicates that a transom requires overhaul in the not too distant future