89 23cc fuel tank - Page 2

osprey · #11 03-01-2007, 09:24 PM

Extraction looks like a bear of a job. I was hoping to get mine out without damaging it. I imagined that the tank would have a vee bottom and that I would be able to tilt it to get it out. In your pics, the tank looks square. Even if I really take my time and remove all the foam, I'm still wondering if it will come out shy of demolishing it. Anyone ever get one out in one piece??? Is it possible?

salvagefirst · #12 03-02-2007, 12:56 AM

I took my tank out in one piece without damaging it.trim the fiberglass back enough so the tank will go thru,its tight but it will go.i cut the foam with a sawsall with a long wood blade. remove the sending unit get a chain and a piece of round steel bar about 2 ft long rapped in a layer of tape to prevent sparks slide it thru the chain link and cross ways in the tank,then hook your comealong or chain hoist to it and pull strait up,believe me it will come up( i used the wrecker)and it wont damage the tank. by the way the tank is flat on the bottom, Les

BigLew · #13 03-02-2007, 03:54 AM

Les,
I've got a 1985 23' Scepter and anticipate that I will/should replace the original tank along with the engine. (The boat has benn out of the water and on the rack covered in a boat yard for 5 years.) The tank is 144 gal. by the spec. sheet that came with the boat.

I'm concerned about how to get it out, but after reading your comment it might be easier (not easy) than I thought. Trimming back the glass and lifting is all it took? I understand you had to put a lot of lift to it to do it, but you didn't have to pull or cut other pieces of cockpit sole?

Any comments/explanation would be appreciated. Thanks!

BigLew

ocuyler · #14 03-02-2007, 10:25 PM

Quote:

Extraction looks like a bear of a job. I was hoping to get mine out without damaging it. I imagined that the tank would have a vee bottom and that I would be able to tilt it to get it out. In your pics, the tank looks square. Even if I really take my time and remove all the foam, I'm still wondering if it will come out shy of demolishing it. Anyone ever get one out in one piece??? Is it possible?

I removed the 133 gallon tank from my 1989 23 CC. I removed the rear bulkhead, which was rotting. I used a long wood blade and a reciprocating saw (what was that dude's name in Florida that used a chainsaw?)to cut the foam. I was a bitch of a job and a 2 or 3 man job, but it came out with help of a forklift, and in one piece. Once removed, I was glad I did because it was pitted. I replaced with the same dimensions aluminum for around $800. Just do it, man. You'll sleep better like Strick said.

If I did it over, I would have installed 2 fifty gallon tanks to help keep weight forward. I will never need to fill up 130 gallons cause we're on Lake Ontario and my max range would be 100 miles or around 50 gallons.

Ed · #15 03-02-2007, 10:34 PM

Ahhh...the chain saw guy! Wasnt his name Lt. Dan or am I thinking of Forrest Gump?

ScottM · #16 03-03-2007, 10:52 AM

Quote:

Ahhh...the chain saw guy! Wasnt his name Lt. Dan or am I thinking of Forrest Gump?

Yup - Chainsaw Theory

EVERGREEN · #17 03-03-2007, 11:03 AM

Fish-On-

Cut the rear bulkhead out, this is the first step in pulling the tank, and it’s not a big job. Check the condition of the lower corners of the tank. If it has rot I think you will see some signs of it when you scrape the foam off. If not take your time and carefully remove it. Power is the key. I was by myself. I had a 2500 lb come-along and a saws-all. I cut along the sides of the tank, pulled it straight back to break it free, then up and out. The pipe inside the filler hole is a good idea if you want to save the tank; I trashed mine with the hook.

If you can rent one of these it’s a piece of cake!

EGreen

osprey · #18 03-11-2007, 01:02 PM

Tank is almost ready to pull. As I cut through the foam,the saw returned wet and covered with mush. I imagine I will see plenty of pitting. Question ?? I have looked at alot of info on replacing tanks and have not seen anyone glassing the tank and replacing it. A layer of 1708 with a good soak of epoxy should be ample protection from future leaks. I would think that a good patch on a bad spot and a wrap would last very well. Any thoughts? I imagine that epoxy would have a high bond strength on aluminum. Will it crack and break bond in a sea? My tank does not leak at the moment, so I'm trying to save it. Thanks guys. I've appreciated all the info.

FELLOW-SHIP · #19 03-12-2007, 10:34 AM

Ha Fish On

Unfortunately you are NOT Right On in your thinking. I entertained that same thought but the nature of corrosion in aluminum does NOT make it go away it keeps eating it’s way and will cause a blister in your glass layer. Kind of like putting a bandied on a cancer might look ok at first but the corrosion Will push through the layer of epoxy and glass and will break through. Plus the corrosion will go downward and eventually cause gas to come through to the epoxy then there is the relationship of epoxy and gas as well. They do make fiberglass tanks from scratch (no aluminum) but the resin is different. I don’t think (I could be wrong) epoxy and gas are compatible you would have to check that point out. Bottom line is this no one will want to go back in and Fix it 2 years later. My suggestion it to belly up to the bar with your $$$ and get a new tank.

FellowShip

_______________________________________________

My motto: Just for the Grins

osprey · #20 03-12-2007, 07:05 PM

Thanks Fellow-Ship. I do Respect your advice. Is there anyone out there that could tell me that glassing my tank is a good idea? Just kidding!!! I guess for it to work, the tank would have to be corrosion free. I imagine that grinding until clean, would probably create holes all over the tank. Epoxy does not break down with gas contact. They sell kits to fix automobile tanks that are epoxy based. You pour the stuff inside the tank, slosh it around and the leaks are fixed. ---- I guess I'll start pricing tanks. Thanks again!!!!!!!!!!!!