Possible Leaking Scuppers??????????? - Page 2

MMikeB · #11 05-05-2007, 08:12 PM

Where abouts do you put these holes in the stringers aft, right below the manifolds?

oldfielder · #12 05-06-2007, 08:56 AM

It's best to get them as far aft as you can, as that's always going to drain any trapped water that moves to the back of the boat.

Bushwacker · #13 05-06-2007, 04:58 PM

Blue 197320, my 72 Seafari has same disease and I'm in process of replacing scupper tubes. Try Dremel wheel #542, Carbide cutting/shaping wheel. It's about 1.0" dia, so is small enough to fit thru f/g hole. If you use the dremel flex cable extension, should be able to carve out most of the rotted wood. My starboard side was ok, no rot but had 1-2" of rotted wood on port side; got most of it out just by just prying w/screwdriver. Have soaked w/alcohol and will seal w/git rot after it dries out. Have figured out a scheme to fill hole w/thickened epoxy & have pilot hole for redrilling: get a 1/2" pvc threaded union and use belt sander to taper one end down to ~1" diameter so it'll fit into hole from bottom. Screw a 1/2" hard grey plastic pvc riser into tapered union and put into hole from bottom. Will use 2x4 & bottle jack to hold it in. Riser wants to be about 2" long, so end is about 1" below top of hole, to provide access for epoxy. Can use a 1/2" dowel rod into top of riser to center it. I plan to put epoxy mix in an empty caulk tube from BOW and pump it in with caulk gun. Will leave dowel rod in place till epoxy cures, then cut & redrill hole with conventional solid 1" drill bit. I figure the soft core of wood/pvc will help it pilot ok. Haven't actually done this yet, but have thought it over for couple of days and believe it'll work. Will probably try it in next couple of weeks. Good luck!

Blue197320 · #14 05-07-2007, 12:30 AM

bushwacker,
thanks for the idea. it sounds like it might just work like u are saying. u will probably get to that stage before i do so please let me know how that works out for u. thanks in advance

hvaldezz · #15 05-07-2007, 05:13 PM

I had the same thing happen to me this weekend. I was out on the water about 3 hours and got some water in the bilge. Turned on the bilge pump and pumped it out.

It was rough and we took on some water on top and it's possible some of the water got in that way, however, when I removed the cushions on the right hand side looking at the back of the boat, I saw a little drip coming out of the stringer which has a hole about half inch in diameter in it.
This was before we got into the 4-6 foot rollers, then we turned back to safer waters.

I've checked the transom and it looks ok, I can't see any places where it might leak. Where else should I look? What's a scupper? I assume its the drain for the water to exit the cockpit and out the back, right?

I'm a novice on these older boats so if you have any help or advice, it will be appreciated.

HankB

NoBones · #16 05-07-2007, 06:16 PM

Check your live well with a mirror.
On my 20 SF there were over flows at the top of the live well which I never saw doing the re-do. They drained into the inner hull. Needless to say I rerouted them to go overboard. Also look at the transom for any screws that may not be sealed. IE: Transducers, Trim tabs, ladders, etc.
Hope this helps, Ken

Blue197320 · #17 05-07-2007, 10:24 PM

i had a similar problem with my livewell on my 20 sf also. i dont know how everyone elses is set up but mine has 1 pump inside and 1 pump outside and where the power wires went into the livewell were not sealed so water would drain out of that hole right into the bilge.

Gary Hill · #18 05-18-2007, 02:38 PM

FELLOW-SHIP,
Have you installed your new transom drains?
Sounds like a great idea.

FELLOW-SHIP · #19 05-18-2007, 03:43 PM

Ha Knotworking

Ya I finished the job last weekend.

This is the scupper.

What I did since you don’t have very much room to work with approx 9” or so.
I bought two 1 ¼” through hull brass fittings plus two hose reducers from 1 ½” to 1 ¼” and these two inline scuppers which are 1 ½’.
First I filled in the through hull tubes and then added fillers to make the hull flat and also those little 3x3” recessed arrears of the deck on port and starboard filled those in as well. Then I bore a hole on port and starboard to drain the deck in that area. Then drilled the holes through the transom and mounted the brass fittings then hose.
I cut the one end of the scupper off that water comes in through and then I mounted the remainder of the scupper inside the boat so all you see is approx ½" of the scupper where those 4 screws are I removed the two top screws and trilled through the inner liner and replaced the two top screws with two longer screws that hold the scupper flat against the inner liner. Then some 5200 and I was done. Took some time to do but looks pretty good and I can get to the scupper to remove junk from the scupper like leaves and such like stuff that can clog up and keep the scupper open.

FellowShip

_______________________________________________

My motto: Just for the Grins

Bushwacker · #20 06-04-2007, 12:13 AM

Epoxy fill of scupper holes using PVC core/pilot hole worked out well - mismatch between original hole & drilled hole at bottom was about 1/32", easily filled with 5200. Would have probably been better if I had used a flat wood drill bit with pilot feature instead of conventional bit which tended to walk.

Epoxy Fill: You will probably discover that the wood block is no longer sealed to the hull, so if you try filling it with plain epoxy as I did, it just runs out at the bottom. Next try with epoxy thickened to about apple sauce consistency worked well. I used MAS slow cure hardener & chilled it & resin in fridge first; otherwise it wants to kick off pretty fast once you pour it in caulk tube! Ended up using 3 caulk tubes, but wasted one due to sealing problem mentioned above. Will try to post some photos.

Brass Tube Installation: (Ordered 1" ID x 6" long brass tubes from Boat Owners Warehouse, about $6 ea., got them overnight) The hole came out about 1/16" oversize due to drill walk, so filled it with 5200 as I slid tube in from top. Installed drain plug in top of tube first for leverage. Need to flare bottom of tube right away to keep 5200 from running out bottom because it's pretty slow to cure. Used a threaded rod, with nuts, washers and a 1/2" drive socket to get the flare started.

Results: After letting the 5200 cure for about 5 days, took the boat out for about 6 hrs, 4 of which was at anchor, bilge pump OFF for entire time. Pulled boat out, pulled bilge plug - it was dry, didn't leak a drop!

Tried posting photos; Need to edit photos to reduce size.
http://s188.photobucket.com/albums/z...scupper%20fix/