Brass scupper tube install

[Bushwacker]

One advantage I have,is that the boat will only see freshwater (the Great Lakes)

That may not be an advantage. Wood rots quicker in freshwater than in salt water. I've know old timers with wood boats that put rock salt in the bilge to make sure that any rainwater that got into the bilge became salty!

As for bedding the scupper tubes, 4200 or Sikaflex might be a good compromise. Life Caulk is pretty good stuff and will even cure underwater, but I still ended up with quite a bit of rot in the wood blocks and a significant leak after about 25 years. They also make stuff now that will attack 5200, but might be a challenge to get it in around the scupper tubes!

[BigLew]

Pardon my 2¢ worth but....
5200 is a great product. When it is used, it is often too good a product. A very good rule for using 5200 is to ask yourself, "Am I ever going to want to take this apart?" If the answer is yes, you might want to find something else.

IMHO, with regards to the scuppers, if it were me I would drill an oversized hole, put tape on the backside and tape on the outside covering the entire hole. Then I would punch a small hole through the tape at the top of the hole and using a large syringe I would fill the hole with epoxy. Let it cure. Drill it to the proper size. Put plenty of caulk on the scupper and seat it in the hole. That way, when you pull the boat you can check/change the caulk. No water should get to that transom. Just my 2¢.

[bigeasy1]

Bushwacker,
you're right, wood does rot faster in fresh water,than it does in saltwater.
I had meant to say that the brass tubes would be more likely to corrode quicker in salt water than fresh.

As for changing them,I figure at my age,they should last me plenty long enough,and if not,I'll have someone else do the work.
After that,it's the kids problem.

[McGillicuddy]

I talked to a project manager down at one of the local boat yards today and ran the scupper sealant by him. He said Sika-flex 291 is what they use for sealing all through-hulls and anything that might need to come out someday. You were right in your thinking - Sorry about suggesting the 5200, what was I thinking? Your kids would've killed me.

[Islandtrader]

This is a handy guide...

If you can't read it send me pm and I will email you the pdf file for easier reading.

[aldo]

I've been wrestling with what product to use also but I think I am going with life-caulk. It can be applied under water, meaning it should be compatible with wet wood, and never completely hardens. I bought the 5200 but think I will save that for another job.
I owe it to the guys on this site for making me carefully check my scuppers. Mine were clearly deteriorated. I got the old ones out by breaking off the flare(It crumbled off) then drove them out with a 1" birch dowel and a hammer. If it ever stops snowing I'll get the new ones in.

[castalot]

life-caulk has never failed me it even stoped us from sinking when a thru hull fitting failed and the life-caulk held it in!!!

[Gary Hill]

FELLOW-SHIP,
I guess you are aging.
Nice reply.
As usuall.

[seafari25]

That may not be an advantage. Wood rots quicker in freshwater than in salt water. I've know old timers with wood boats that put rock salt in the bilge to make sure that any rainwater that got into the bilge became salty!

You're right about that Denny

I've been changing planks on the lobster boat and she's in alot worse shape above the waterline than below. The washboards are also pretty rough in spots due to rainwater sitting ontop.

Now I'm no oldtimer but I do put salt in the bilge...but only when stored in winter. In the summer I don't have to worry about it because salt water comes in almost as quickly as it goes out

here are a couple of pics of the old girl
[image][/image]
[image][/image]

[Islandtrader]

I love the plumb bow and sheer line.

Who is the maker of that style boat?