#11
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Re: SeaCraft 20' questions
Hey Gillie...yes I am in the market to go bigger ....put mine on market ..and see what happens....should really piss the wife off now ....but if it doesnt sell?!??!!
-Fred
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"...Southern by the grace of God" |
#12
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Re: SeaCraft 20' questions
I have seen a few Seafari 20 and Sceptre 20 for sale on CL but I am really looking for center console. so correct me if i am wrong, the Sf and the MA differences is the gunnel height? For the 1970's years does any one know the HP ratings and what works best with the hull?
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#13
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SeaCraft 20' questions
Just my 2 cents. I have a '75 20' SF. When I bought it it was basically a shell. Blown 200 Johnson, no controls or Binnacle. Wiring all pulled out, no CC shelving, NASTY looking....Severly faded gel coat, a mess inside. I ran all new wiring to a seasense fuse box. Installed new teleflex gauges, Put a used OMC top mount binnacle. New steering helm cable, Fishfinder, GPS, Bimini with rear braces,teak swim ladder, Made new cushions. New stereo system ( 4 speakers and 1 10" subwoofer) LED lighting for the front. But to get to the point I put a 95 115 Evinrude and it really rides nice. 37-38 MPH WOT. Cruise nicely at 21-22. Good hole shot, So you don't really need alot of motor if your Bay/Near Offshore. I fish out of the Galveston Bay complex and it can whip up quickly with 20 MPH southeast winds, but I have been very satisfied with the sea worthiness. Never a worry so far.. the 115 is about 300 lbs and as mentioned on this board the 20' SF was designed for around a 300lb motor due to the offerings in the 60s-70's.
It does not squat abnormally and the scuppers when open only fill when your standing on the corners at the stern, you move a bit forward and your draining. Anyway my 2 cents. I have about 4500 in the boat so far, doing most of the grunt work myself. Its been alot of sore muscles, but when I'm out there.....PRICELESS !! "Navy" Dave Elias 1975 20 CC SF 1995115 Evinrude |
#14
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Re: SeaCraft 20' questions
Here is a pic of my Master Angler that you can maybe see the difference with the pic above
the cap has 4" above the rub rail and wide gunnels which is the biggest difference - next it has a baitwell built into the port rear stern compartment thats plenty big - top all the way to the stringer - the SF has a small hatch storage area there. This model was brought out in '75 as livebait became so popular, best option on an SF is a baitwell under a leaning post I believe. I am a live baiter, so that was huge for me, the wide gunnels are a huge item for Susan - she loves the fact you can just sit anywhere which we do just drift around alot, and with the T Top you can walk around. They also come in quite handy mid-ship back that makes other issues quite comfortable. After looking at the pic's, thought I would mention it has a recessed bow rail also. Although I'm too old and fat to get in over the bow from the beach anyway. I have been all the 20's and for me this was the best by far, we considered the Seafari for the cabin which is quite large but no bow access. The SF may go shallower but I can trim up and idle in 18" with 416# pounds of motor, maybe a little less with the baitwell full but not much. The original 20's we rigged at our shop all had inline 150 Merc's and I would say on the east coast of Fla with the inlets that should be the minimum HP up to 200 - NO 4 strokes as weight is an issue. ask anything else you have questions on
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Any way you measure it - dumbass is expensive |
#15
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Re: SeaCraft 20' questions
My 20SF is used for several types of fishing/diving.
The removeable tower is used for looking for bug holes in the keys to chasing Manta Rays with Cobia on them. I also drift fish Sebastian Inlet for Snook. The big thing with selecting the right boat is what do you want it to do for you. Obviously one boat (ugh humm) will not serve all of your needs.. Just try to narrow down what you do the most of and go from there... BTW, every man should have minimum of 2 boats... Just be careful you could end up like the rest of us with to many in the collection.. Good luck, Ken
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See ya, Ken © |
#16
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Re: SeaCraft 20' questions
Thanks for all the great info!!
OK so I hope i have this correct now, You can identify the MA and SF by the bow rail. On the MA it is recessed and the SF is high above the gunnels? I am going to look at what I believe is an MA, has recessed bow rail. it has no motor and appears to be unmodified. owner says it had an 20" 150 merc. I was going to put an XR2 merc i have off another boat which is also 20" If I measure from the bottom of the transom up to the mounting holes does any one know what that measurement should be to make sure no one has changed the transom? What should I look for other then soft spots in the deck and transoms? where are other trouble spots? What would be a reasonable price for an 1977 MA with trailer? |
#17
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Re: SeaCraft 20' questions
Nope - a MA will have 4" of deck above the RUB RAIL and a baitwell in the port aft corner plus wide gunnels - bow rails can be changed, although I have never seen an SF with a recessed one
Transom should measure appox 20" from the deep vee to the top if its a 20 - I just measured mine what kind of trailer and its value on the used market, leaves you with hull value - hull value depending on condition 1500 to 4000 (with T Top), lots of varience here as to condition so hard to tell.
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Any way you measure it - dumbass is expensive |
#18
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Re: SeaCraft 20' questions
that is a sweet boat you have there
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Kevin |
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