Spring Project(s) 74 20SF

[Bushwacker]

Nice job! You're really moving on that project.

I notice you're using epoxy, which I'd also use for a project like that. You may already know this, but the epoxy hardener has a bunch of nasty (carcinogenic!) chemicals in it. Even though it doesn't have much odor, I was advised by a professional boat builder to always wear a respirator and use nitrile gloves (the chemicals go right thru latex) when working with it. Here's a post on epoxy precautions that I posted some time ago with more info on the subject: http://www.classicseacraft.com/forum...r=73245&Forum=,,,,,,,,,,,,,,All_Forums,,,,,,,,,,,,,,&Words=&Sear chpage=7&Limit=25&Main=73196&Search=true&where=&Na me=2198&daterange=&newerval=&newertype=&olderval=& oldertype=&bodyprev=#Post73245

Good luck with that project! Denny

[SeaPlusPlus]

Thanks for the info! I had been using nitrile gloves up until when those pictures were taken as my box of gloves ran out and all we had left in the shop was latex, though I did triple layer the latex gloves. Interesting about the respirator though, I'll make sure to use mine next time I mess with epoxy as I'm rather fond of my lungs

[workinpr0gress]

I just use waterbased epoxy, works wonderful in my lala land....lol

[strick]

For making parts epoxy is a big waste of money. I hardly use it anymore for anything...and I used to use it all the time. If you have to use epoxy because of the fume factor that you get with vinylester and polyester then use it otherwise you could buy 3 times the amount of isopolyester resin for the same price you buy epoxy. JMHO

strick

[SeaPlusPlus]

The SeaCraft gods really have smiled on me this past month blessing me with rain all week while I sit in my cubicle making the pain of not working on the SeaCraft less and then giving me bright sunshiny perfect weekends, this weekend was no different, sunny and in the 50s.

First a little console work. My dad has been awesome enough to on the sunny days do some work on the console while I worked:



The upper dash was filled with a piece of 1/4" exterior plywood encased in 2 layers of 1708 on the back and 1 in the front, it was then cut to fit the hole and 5 minute epoxied in place. The same where the steering wheel and throttle goes except in place of plywood it was 3/4" coosa board. All the edges around were filled with thickened resin.



The other large holes on the console were then backed with a piece of glass while the smaller ones were taped and then filled.



Once the fairing compound was sandable the entire thing was sanded down. The two huge dash holes were them taped off and a layer of 6oz cloth was placed on top of them.



The next day the entire thing was sanded down again and then faired again, for hopefully the last time, that is currently drying.





Saturday started with my attention focusing on getting the existing scuppers out while my saturday work crew finished sanding the non-skid off the deck.

If you're planning on removing your scuppers, and you have the brass nut on top brass plate on bottom style, do not try and removed the scupper from the bottom, the following picture indicates how to not remove these scuppers.



After about and hour or prying, I finally got the plate off the bottom and cut off the flanged end only to find that the scupper wouldn't budge upwards. I framed on it, got the jack and a piece of re-bar and tried to lift it out (which picked up the whole back end of the boat), but it would not move. So I thought I'd try from the top, went to the store and bought ($12) a socket big enough to turn the 1.5" brass nut. Took the nut off and started to hit it from the top, took about 10 hits before it was out. Went to other side, removed nut, hit it about 10 times it was out.



Starboard scupper 2 hours, port scupper 2 minutes, amazing how much faster things go when you're doing them right, haha. I then took the socket back and got my $12 back.

After a quick check on my saturday work crew (two friends who fish on the boat frequently and promised me every sat until she's done )



I went back to scupper inspection. If anyone is wondering what the inside of the thru-hull scuppers look like I took a picture. The brass tube runs through about a 3" cube of wood thats glassed, it sits on top of glass which is then on top of the hull:



I'm rerouting my scuppers to drain out the transom, so these holes needed to be filled. I ground out a large area around them.



Since I don't want water draining in the hole and saturating the blocks of wood before I got a chance to patch the bottom, I decided to go ahead and fill them. First I put a small square of glass on the bottom with 5 minute epoxy, this will be sanded down once the filler sets and replaced with a proper repair.



Next a piece of glass about 4" wide and 10" long was rolled into a fiberglass cigar:



The "cigar" was to be used as a filler for the hole rather than just filling with straight epoxy.



The hole was then filled about 2/3 of the way full of epoxy and the cigar was pushed down inside.



Then 3 1" x 12" strips of glass were then wrapped around the cigar cinnamon roll style to provide more filler.



Then the rest of the hole was filled with epoxy.



Once this sets it will be faired flush with the rest of the surrounding gutter. Each scupper took about 6oz of epoxy. The new scuppers will drain out directly behind the filled ones.

I also started sanding off the bottom paint that the stripper would not remove. Here's what the boat looked like sat night.



Here is how I left her tonight:



You can also see in the picture where all the rub rail holes were countersunk and then filled with thickened resin, the new rub rail will get new holes.

This week I'll be working on this monstrosity of a hole:



Thats where I cut out my splash well for my transom job and never got around to fixing it , my plans for it are to tab in (and then reinforce) some glass wrapped coosa running from the forward lip straight back to right above the hydrolic steering lines and engine wiring hole then glass over the entire thing and cut a hole for this Armstrong hatch I picked up.



Its 10" x 20" which between that and the two hatches back there I should have enough room to get access to anything I need to in the bilge.

Hopefully the SeaCraft gods keep smiling on me and sending Va good weather. Thanks for looking all

[Bigshrimpin]

Is that 1708 with epoxy? I'm surprised that you can get that to cure. The glue binder in mat always has ruined my attempts to use 1708 + epoxy . . . I always end up with a flexible rubbery 1/2 cured part or repair.

[SeaPlusPlus]

All I've been using on this boat except when a pure cosmetic approach is needed then I use just 6oz cloth. Have had no problems and cures solid as a rock, my transom is 4 layers of 1708 and epoxy and is unmovable.

[uncleboo]

Sent you an email. Coming along nicely!

[SeaPlusPlus]

Pricing and getting to the point of purchasing the paint. I trailer this boat and will not be putting a bottom on it so the entire exterior will be Awlgrip Sea Foam while the interior will be Matterhorn White (or some other variant of white that won't be blinding in the summer sun).

Can anyone who has painted their 20 give me any recommendations on the volume of paint I need to buy? I've searched the forums a bit and have found very contrasting numbers over the projects.

This stuff is expensive and I don't want to have a ton left over. Thanks.

[apneadreams]

Hey Seaplusplus,

Check out the link below orginally posted by Strick concerning Awlgrip paints....BTY I plan on shooting mine next week using interlux perfection 2 part....good luck and see ya on the water .
http://www.classicseacraft.com/forum...rev=#Post76759