motor issues, carbs dirty maybe?

[76Red18]

If its a 60 degree 150 check the shift assist switch on the lower starboard side attached to the linkage. It kills power to 1 cylinder bank when shifting and will do some strange things to the power pack when going bad. Don't know if the 90 degree motors use them.

[2182]

this does make the most sense (starving the motor). i checked all the fuel lines from the pick up back last fall (when i replaced vacuum switch), all was good. at that point i replaced primer ball. i always check the fuel in the separator when i change it. this time had some lovely metal flakes, but no water. guess i will recheck fuel lines, add splice in place of fuel management filter, and try to water test. if that fails, motor is still under warranty, and she goes to the shop. the joy of living on the coast is this time of year there is a 2 week wait minimum at all mechanics, even the country guy i use in the middle of nowhere...thanks as usual for all your ideas and suggestions, ill keep you posted.

[gofastsandman]

Year and model of Motah?

The check engine light/horn monitors vacuum for fuel. Get a good long sweep gauge with 20"s max and work your way back to the tank. I had a clogged Racor with maybe 30 hours on it after we got e 10 shoved down our throats. Cleaned out all the crap from my 20 yr. old tank.

I blew the VRO diaphram on my `96 150 last Tues. The kit was 62 clams and took about an hour. Very easy! I run premix.

Cheers,
GFS

[2182]

motor is an 06 model but i hung it new midsummer 09. im not sure if the vaccum switch is a separate issue from the bogging down or not, like the sweeper idea. ill try it.

think model is jx150psd or something along those lines...

[eggsuckindog]

Isolate and Eliminate

start at one end of the system - btw squeezing the bulb will overide the fuel pump to eliminate that

[2182]

i know, ive limped home using the bulb before...just got some time looking around, removed navman inline fuel gauge, its useless. lines clean to bulb. lines clean from bulb to black pipe where there is a connection somewhere (fuel line from motor meets fuel line running through hull somehow). all lines on motor appear clear, but are held on using crazy connections, dont want to void warranty. hate to say it but she may be heading for the shop. also, noticed a good bit of oil stains on lower unit of motor running down towards the foot. unrelated?

[2182]

i am going to try the auxiliary motor idea tomorrow. question; can i modify a jerry jug and use a 3/8 ID fuel line (like i have now) as the pick up and a primer bulb to prime it or do i have to go out and buy an expensive one? i asked a few friends if they have one, but havent heard back yet. i guess the fuel pump pulls the gas so it doesnt have to be super pressurized, ill just tie a weight to the end of the fuel line (like an aerator).

[gofastsandman]

Pump the bulb on the pony tank. You have a fuel delivery issue. Do not run big `till solved.

Listen,
GFS

[Bushwacker]

A lot of the 6 gallon tanks were set up for smaller motors (like V-4's) with 5/16 dia. fuel lines. Wouldn't use one of those for a V-6. I think you'd be better off with a jerry jug.

If it acts up again, try pumping the bulb. It's behavior will give you some good clues. If it stays flat after squeezing, there is a restriction up stream, between bulb and fuel supply. If you can't pump it much before it gets hard and motor doesn't pick up speed, there's a restriction between the bulb and carbs. If doesn't get real hard and motor picks up speed, you may have a weak fuel pump or a blockage that pump suction can't overcome but pressure will at least partially overcome. Be careful not to run long in lean condition because lean combustion produces very high temperatures that can either burn a piston, cause it to expand so much that it can score the cylinder or even seize up!

[76Red18]

That motor has that interrupt switch. Unplug it and run the motor. Don't shift more than necessary and when you do have to shift, throw it in gear as fast as possible..