And away we go... - Page 2

CHANCE1234 · #11 10-18-2012, 09:29 PM

Today I siphoned the fuel tank the old fashion way. I hate the test of gasoline but I was able to fill up two vehicles and still have about 10 gallons left over in jugs. The gas tank was removed and then the deck was removed. The gas tank seems to be in very good condition. I have about an inch of fuel still in there but no place to put it until tomorrow. After it is dry I will clean it up and pressure test it. I think my new plan will to get a new under deck tank made and cut about 8 inches out of the console to give more deck room. So starting tomorrow I will start the clean up phase and see how much water is in the foam. Besides pushing down on the top of the foam to check for water is there any better way? The stringers all seem to be in good condition as well. However, this boat is tittled as a 1973. i thought the stringers were changed to the box style in '72. the original HIN is not visible or never existed. Is there any other way to help determine the actual year of the boat? Once I get it cleaned up,I will get some more pictures.

BigLew · #12 10-18-2012, 09:55 PM

Prior Owner: Hope and a Prayer U. PhD - Marine Vessel Maintenance

New owner: Univ. of Let's Get Real - PhD - Living is a Good Thing!

CHANCE1234 · #13 10-18-2012, 10:00 PM

I have no idea what that means Lew.

Bushwacker · #14 10-18-2012, 11:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CHANCE1234

. . . However, this boat is tittled as a 1973. i thought the stringers were changed to the box style in '72. the original HIN is not visible or never existed. Is there any other way to help determine the actual year of the boat? . . .

My '72 has 4 stringers; I've seen a '73 Seafari with box stringers, which I think is the first year they were made. Sometimes a boat was built one year but titled later, so that's probably what happened to yours. If you have a metallic load capacity sticker, it may have the hull serial No. on it which might give you some clues. Don't know where they put them on the cc's, maybe on console somewhere. Picture below is what mine looks like.

CHANCE1234 · #15 10-19-2012, 04:10 PM

I have the sticker on my console but I can't read it due do fading. I poked around in the foam between the stringers this afternoon and it seems pretty dry in most spots except for one area that was pretty wet by where the console was. I also took out Lot of the big junk of foam by the casting deck as that is where the fuel tank might go.

While I have the deck up I wanted to look at the scuppers and how they were attached. The first of these pictures is the port side and looks awesome. The second is the starboard and does not look so good. It does not really matter as I plan to raise the deck and go out the transom with the scuppers after I fill the existing ones.

I was surprised to see that the deck does not actually sit on the stringers themself but it sits on the hardened potter putty. I new there was potter putty under the deck but I figured it would have been compressed a lot more during installation.

You can see in this picture that the top of the deck is actually 1.25" above the stringers.

I will be removing all the foam in next few days. After that I will have some questions for you all. I used a simple claw hammer to remove the foam on the port side already and it came up pretty easy. Some spots right next to where the console was had a heavy odor of fuel at the bottom of it. I'll put up some more pictures later tonight.

CHANCE1234 · #16 10-20-2012, 07:46 AM

The port side foam was wet only on the aft 4 feet is and only about a half inch up from the bottom. The starboard side was all bone dry.

When I put the new deck in after I raise the stringers, do I just glass it to the sides? If so shouldn't I also add some height some how to the remaining 4 inches of old deck that is left so the new deck has support around the edges? If I don't, wouldn't the edges be a week spot with no support under them and only being supported by the glass from the deck to the sides of the boat? This is way down the line but I have always been curious and in other rebuilds I have never seen a clear cut decision on this. Thanks for the help as always.

otterhound · #17 10-20-2012, 09:52 AM

The bent over wire in the fuel fill was most likely a ground that ran back to the fuel tank and points beyond. My 20' SF had the same thing only broken off at the fill but still attached at the tank. A mechanic friend said that this is a Coast Guard requirement.
Rod

CHANCE1234 · #18 10-21-2012, 04:17 PM

So if I raise the deck 3 inches, by default do I have to raise the transom to 25 inches and thus get a 25 inch shaft engine? Could I just build up the splash well a little higher and use my 20 inch shaft for a few more years?

strick · #19 10-21-2012, 05:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CHANCE1234

When I put the new deck in after I raise the stringers, do I just glass it to the sides? If so shouldn't I also add some height some how to the remaining 4 inches of old deck that is left so the new deck has support around the edges? If I don't, wouldn't the edges be a week spot with no support under them and only being supported by the glass from the deck to the sides of the boat? This is way down the line but I have always been curious and in other rebuilds I have never seen a clear cut decision on this. Thanks for the help as always.

Yes that would be the easiest to do it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by CHANCE1234

So if I raise the deck 3 inches, by default do I have to raise the transom to 25 inches and thus get a 25 inch shaft engine? Could I just build up the splash well a little higher and use my 20 inch shaft for a few more years?

No and yes to those questions but IMHO it would be better to bite the bullet and make it a 25 inch transom or better yet bracket and full transom while you have it all tore apart.

strick

CHANCE1234 · #20 10-21-2012, 05:30 PM

I am so undecided now with what to do. Here is what I think I can get done this winter in order to fish it next summer.

1. Put new deck in at original height keep everything else stock and fish it for the next few years knowing I have a good strong deck under me.

Or

2. Raise deck, leave 20 inch transom use current motor, build up splashwell and save transom job for a few years down the road.

Leaning toward raising deck 3 inches and raise splashwell and save transom and motor for another time.