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  #11  
Old 06-06-2013, 02:54 PM
pair of jacks pair of jacks is offline
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Thanks for the suggestion BJ- that sounds like something that's going on my list for next winter. I've been dealing with the water issue since buying boat and it's just a pain in the a@#.
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  #12  
Old 06-06-2013, 05:56 PM
Ruge13 Ruge13 is offline
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I have a 2001 SC23. But, I thought it was a Trader hull... Check the hull #. Somewhere on here there is a key for the hull ID's.

Regardless, The only "issues" I have found (if you want to call it that) have been...

1. Breaker box - LAME. Should have used 2 prong panel fuses. In rough water the breaker switches occasionally trip when the boat bounces because the resistance in the switch itself is light. If you need to replace it, or check wiring they are a pain to work on because of the access through the side of the console. As an example, I was out in 4ft seas 2 weeks ago and slammed through a wave... my trim tab breaker fell closed and I lost tabs. Certainly easy enough to flip the switch again, but a annoying. When I got the boat I rewired most of it myself but left some of the factory pannel in tact. In hind sight it would be an ambitions project but I would have fully replaced it.

2. Deck latches - they are all plastic. They break, and they look cheap. I replaced ALL latches etc. with Stainless Perkos. Not cheap, but I like them better.

3. Front console storage cushion - The flip down cushion doesn't stay shut, and has no weather stripping so water gets in from rain or waves. The box is not water tight, so it drains on your batteries and electrical components in the console. Waves and Saltwater were my issue, I have a lot of electronics. So, I weather stripped it with 3 layers (about 1.5" thick) and then used perko hatch locks to hold it tight. Problem solved, stays shut and dry.

4. No drains on the electronics box nested in the console. I sealed it, but prior to that water would collect from Rain, spray over the T top etc. I would wipe it down with fresh water and mop up the collected water after each trip.

5. Make sure your gauges are sealed with silicone. If not, they will leak. When they do, it drips on to the aforementioned LAME breaker panel causing terminal corrosion. I am willing to bet the terminals are not using anchor heat shrink connections. I replaced mine when I saw that before it ever hit the water.

Other than that I have had zero issues and I love the ride. Fortunately all of these things I caught when I inspected the boat before I started running it so I prevented issues that would have surely shown up 40 miles offshore. I routinely have other boat owners and experienced anglers on board and have received nothing but compliments on the '01 SeaCraft hull finish.

About the Live well, if you keep the boat in the water, then yah I see your point on in deck wells. Get some weather stripping from West Marine to line the channel and plug the channel corner drain holes, problem solved. If you trailer, just yank off that stupid 500 GPH livewell drain pump. Get a 3/4" end cap for your threaded livewell drain plug. Use the well by capping the drain, and when you pull the boat out of the water just unscrew the cap and let it drain to the bilge and then out the hull drain plug. Its only a matter of time before the livewell drain pump fails on you anyway, one more thing to fix.

I am using the through hull from the drain pump I removed and its power switch for a second backup manual bilge pump.

I have a Mirage 17 on the 225 opti. With an empty well it likes to run high on the trim, the prop grabs really well even in high speed turns. With a full livewell I run the trim flatter as the boat tends to squat a bit with 2-3 people on board.

Last edited by Ruge13; 06-06-2013 at 06:08 PM.
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  #13  
Old 06-10-2013, 04:52 PM
bj bj is offline
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Another way water can get in your livewell is when your boat is at the dock water will seep past the flapper on the overboard drain back into the livewell. I purchased a rubber stopper (just like they use to use in the old bath tubs) and keep mine plugged. Mine is in dry stack so when it's put in the water and it sits overnight the livewell would fill. If I didn't remember to pump it out I would be riding around all day with an extra 200+ lbs. This may not be a problem for the 23' but it is for my 21'.
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  #14  
Old 06-10-2013, 10:30 PM
pair of jacks pair of jacks is offline
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Yes I do the same thing- plug the live well overflow drain
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  #15  
Old 06-11-2013, 03:49 PM
Ruge13 Ruge13 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pair of jacks View Post
Yes I do the same thing- plug the live well overflow drain
The overflow drain should have a seacock on it, no? If not, you might want to add one. I keep mine closed, only open it when I am using the well.
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  #16  
Old 06-11-2013, 10:18 PM
pair of jacks pair of jacks is offline
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Live well fill has seacock Live well drain goes thru stern scupper
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  #17  
Old 06-12-2013, 03:13 PM
Ruge13 Ruge13 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pair of jacks View Post
Live well fill has seacock Live well drain goes thru stern scupper
Ahh ok, that is different than mine. My upper drain goes through the stern with its own through hull fitting and has a seacock so I can keep water from back filling when not in use. The lower drain (that previously had a pump that I removed) would have drained out the port side at the water line, with no seacock.
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