1974 20' sceptre transom replacement and i/o to outboard bracket conversion - Page 2

flyingfrizzle · #11 07-22-2013, 07:30 AM

I will add two layers of of 1808 over the 3 layers of mat to add a good bit more of strength. After getting this far and hot coating the matted layers in the 95 degree heat in direct sunlight. I had to work faster than I like to do due to the cure time. I mix in smaller batches and stuck with the 1% hardener (normally use more to speed up cure time) and decided to let it cure out after the first few layers. I will ruff it up with some 36 grit sand paper, clean it well then add the 1808 and some more tabbing. This time I will do it a bit earlier and beat the heat.

flyingfrizzle · #12 07-22-2013, 11:13 PM

She got her butt plug tonight!

NoBones · #13 07-23-2013, 12:20 AM

Don't forget the butt paste....

flyingfrizzle · #14 09-09-2013, 11:41 AM

Worked on closing off the old I/O compartment on the rear of the boat. I was going to do a live well similar to strick but after getting a 465lbs motor I decided to not add the weight of the water in the well. The bracket should have enough air space to float the motor and I will be moving the gas tank forward and with the forward weight of the sceptre model I think I am fine but don't want to push the issue no more than I have to. I decided to just make a bench area between the rear seats that I could use as a cutting board for bait or a step up for sight casting.

This is the fiber board that I used to back the areas I glassed to get a smother finish:

This is the rear section getting glassed in:

Adding foam core material to the under side so that it will be strong enough to stand on:

Glassed in place with first layer of matt:

Using the vinyl ester resin that turns white when it cures. You can see it starting to cure in this photo:

Fully cured in this photo:

The front side of the bench step. I still need to grind out the front edge of the seem and glass it in:

In the Boat:

Next is to grind out all the seems around the piece I removed to do the transom and glass it back in place. I am also going to get the bilge vents removed from the top section and make this area solid for the rod holders.

Started fitting up the bracket to the boat to get the height for the mount with the 25" mercury:

Started sanding down the sides of the hull and fixing a few bad spots below the water line that was hiding under the bottom coat:

Hope to soon get the hull ready for a new color just need to figure out what one to pick!

strick · #15 09-10-2013, 12:27 AM

What will you be doing with the lip around the deck for the old engine hatch? Cutting it out and filling it in? I left the vents in place and was still able to get two rod holders on each side. In your case you could put one in the middle as well and then you would have three back there. With the ventilation my bilge stays clean and dry. There will be mildew unless you provide some sort of ventilation....and it spreads fast. If you are going to put some pop up cleats back there now is the time to do the cut outs for them while you have the back tore off. I had a hard time getting my arm up under there installing mine. What kind of paint are you going with? Dark colors look great but are a pain to apply and make look good. Looking great so far and your moving right along.

strick

flyingfrizzle · #16 09-10-2013, 12:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by strick

What will you be doing with the lip around the deck for the old engine hatch? Cutting it out and filling it in? I left the vents in place and was still able to get two rod holders on each side. In your case you could put one in the middle as well and then you would have three back there. With the ventilation my bilge stays clean and dry. There will be mildew unless you provide some sort of ventilation....and it spreads fast. If you are going to put some pop up cleats back there now is the time to do the cut outs for them while you have the back tore off. I had a hard time getting my arm up under there installing mine. What kind of paint are you going with? Dark colors look great but are a pain to apply and make look good. Looking great so far and your moving right along.

strick

Far as the lip I am undecided on whether or not to cut it out or to just enclose the top of it and use it as a mounting platform for a reverse fishing chair. I got one piece of foam left large enough to core a blank for the top of it. Far as the vents goes, to late on that one. If I read this first I might of left them in there but now that thier gone I might add them back on the sides of the same section. I was planning on adding 4-5 rod holders like you have on yours but plan on running them all the way across the top. I was going to make this area in to a storage box but then I am adding weight back there again so I scratched that Idea and decided to do the rod holders instead. Thanks for the heads up on the cleats! I will do that, It should save me the trouble mounting them after the fact. Far as the paint I have been using all inturlux products so far and plan on using the 2 part polyurethane perfection line for my final coat. Color? I was fighting lady yellow then seafoam green then light blue but after I saw the pictures of the one you posted the other day I think I am back to the Yellow but want a bright sporty yellow like the one in your pic. Not really sure but need to decide soon. Thanks for the intell, you and your post have been a big help!!!

flyingfrizzle · #17 09-12-2013, 08:14 AM

Last night I made a knee to support the transom and bracket. I want to get the bilge area finished out so I can get my top cap back on and seemed together. Left a small area open at the center of the rear for a low point for bilge pump and I also like my drain holes centered not to the side like original. Skimmed some short strand fiber puddy on the knee to smooth it out for the glass wrap. I used 1708 for some of the smaller areas then the roven backed with matt over the main part of the knee. Would of used all 1708 but still got some free roven to use so it has to go somewhere. I also applyed some more tabbing on the stringers just for over kill. They should be 3/8 thick where they meet the transom or more now. Tonight I will go around and tab the knee in better and make sure it is 100 percent covered.

flyingfrizzle · #18 09-15-2013, 03:51 PM

Got the bilge coated with 2000e this weekend and set some poles to make a building to do the work to the race boat under.

flyingfrizzle · #19 09-16-2013, 10:38 PM

Filled in the bottom side of the rear cap so that it will be solid for the rod holder's. Cored it with ply and beaded it in thicken resin and scrap fibers to add strength. Then layed 3 layers of Matt over that. Should have a nice even bed for a strong mount.

flyingfrizzle · #20 09-18-2013, 07:17 AM

Set the bracket last night. Got it as low as possible for maximum flotation. The tub ended up 3" above the boat keel and the motor mount was about 29" from the boat bottom. I think I should Be able to get the motor up 4"-5" no problem. The swim platform is not as low as I would like it but it had to be higher like this to allow for the lower motor mount bolts to hit below the platform to get the required height. Looks good on the boat. I will be using flat bar to back the bolts on the inside and also changing the current bolts to ss carriage bolts to give a nice rounded head that will be seen on the lower flange due to the reverse direction of it. The flange will need a half circle cut out in the bottom to allow the drain hole to be accessed as well. Now that the dry fit is done I will make some small changes and get it prepped for a final install.