#11
|
|||
|
|||
Back a few yrs doing some cargo blogs around imam airport the big switch gear came in on mahogany or teak ruff sawn boards hard to believe but someone used them for trailer bunks (this time not me) helps to keep your eyes open sometimes
|
#12
|
|||
|
|||
Looking into a new double axle trailer understand a few manufactures are using cypress for bunks not cheap but I would think a great choice
|
#13
|
|||
|
|||
I used juniper....man does that baby float! Almost as good as the boat!!!:-p
__________________
1975 SF18/ 2002 DF140 1972 15' MonArk/ 1972 Merc 50 http://i833.photobucket.com/albums/z...photos/SC3.jpg |
#14
|
|||
|
|||
Is this on an aluminum trailer? I replaced the ruster steel cradle i beams on my boat lift with aluminum beams. So light. The wood bunks made it float i had to weight it down
|
#15
|
|||
|
|||
I need to apologize to everyone regarding my comment that 4 by is overkill. I was looking at all of the pictures of trailer bunks posted in this thread. (each used timbers on edge.)
Four by tens on face makes sense up to a point. The same could be accomplished using two by PT product backed by two by, also PT. Whether or not PT is acceptable in this application is probably a question of state regulation. I believe the point of excessive buoyancy is a real consideration. Again, my apologies to anyone who took offense at my comment or its tone. I meant no offense.
__________________
Getting home is more important than getting there! Plan accordingly! |
#16
|
|||
|
|||
I would like to apologize to everyone regarding my comments regarding the use of four x timbers in this application. All of the bunks shown in the pictures of this thread are timbers on edge. Using a timber with its face to the hull makes a lot of sense.
Personally, I would investigate the feasibility of using pressure treated lumber and building a bomb of two x 8-10 with two by four or six ribs for backing. It is probably a question of local regulation. I would also advised not totally encapsulating the wood in Astro-turf. This would be to ensure that the wood actually dries out between dunkings. Again my apologies to any one I may have offended.
__________________
Getting home is more important than getting there! Plan accordingly! |
#17
|
|||
|
|||
The trailer is an old Nor Easter. The cross members are not straight, they angle down towards the middle. The only reason I was looking at 3 or 4 by is because my brother had a trailer and I measured his bunks, they were 3x10x 10' long. Cypress is not happening up here. Spoke to a trailer dealer and he said go get 2 2x10's and nail/screw together, then cut the appropriate angle for the hull. That may be the way to go. Oak would cost a lot to have sawn up. I have all the brackets and U bolts.
|
#18
|
|||
|
|||
Lew....not to worry!! This is CSC, no need to apologize if you think you are on the right track! I've got 3 x 10 cypress standing on edge on the rear bunks and 2 x 6 pressure treated laying flat on the front as guide on bunks. We all have what we think is the best way to "skin the cat". Heck I've towed my clunker 23'er back and forth the the Keys a minimum of 30 times using this set up, what ever works!!
|
#19
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Cypress is the preferred wood in the south since we have it, although we have Oak the Cypress will not rot and is always used. I think its alot lighter than Oak too I just put a new axle under mine and did the bunk brackets last year but these guys are great to deal and may even send you some bunks - they have a dealer in Norfolk VA maybe they could send them there with a trailer order. LoadMaster Trailers - they were building trailers in the 70's even - great to deal business with so call JP he'll answer all kinds of questions for you. I was very happy with may service
__________________
Any way you measure it - dumbass is expensive |
|
|