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#11
11-29-2014, 11:12 AM
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Thanks for all the responses and helpful knowledge guys!!
I agree with almost all of the suggestions. A couple of my thoughts: 1) I think I could get away with and it is possible to cut off the existing spindle off the existing axle and weld on a replacement spindle. But I think that would be a royal PITA, and provide a marginal longterm result. The brake assembly may also cause a problem on that retro fit. I also agree with Don that the galvanized part will be compromised. 2) I think a new axle (as Terry and CDavisdb) suggest is the "best" long term fix, although the most expensive at this time. 3) I like Don's thoughts and suggestions best. I think it is the easiest and cheapest "attempt" to fix the problem. The bearing surface on the spindle isn't that bad. I think a good light sanding/honing of the axle spindle will produce a very smooth riding surface. I'll then get a new set of bearings and press, grease and pack everything back together and just see how it goes. I don't use my trailer much, as I generally keep my boat at a high-n-dry marina at the local lake. 4) If solution #3 doesnt work, I'm not out much money and then I can go for a total axle replacement.
__________________
1977 SeaCraft 23' Sceptre W/ Alum Tower & Yamaha 225 www.LouveredProductsUnlimited.com 
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#12
11-29-2014, 11:22 AM
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Make sure the outer bearing wont wobble on the spindle after dressing.
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#13
11-30-2014, 08:21 AM
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Always good to replace damaged parts but If you clean up the surface where it is smooth enough to get the bearing back on without play it will be fine. I have had this happen and done this with out problem while still working three years latter. If it is loose or has play it will need replacing. I have bought spindles from a suppliers for less than $20 but when you weld them in you must get them 100% straight or you will have excessive tire ware. You will loose the galvanized protection but I have an industrial product that will re galvanize the welds but not as good as hot dipping it. You heat it and melt the product over the area. Forget what the product is called. Long as the new bearing is tight on the repaired area let her ride and don't worry it should be fine.
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Current SeaCraft projects: 68 27' SeaCraft Race boat 71 20' SeaCraft CC sf 73 23' SeaCraft CC sf 74 20' SeaCraft Sceptre 74 20' SeaCraft CC sf
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#15
11-30-2014, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
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#17
11-30-2014, 08:03 PM
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Quote:
I have identified the bearings I need. The bearing set needs to be 1-3/8" inners and 1-1/16" outers.
__________________
1977 SeaCraft 23' Sceptre W/ Alum Tower & Yamaha 225 www.LouveredProductsUnlimited.com
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#18
11-30-2014, 09:52 PM
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Quote:
PM sent...
__________________
1977 SeaCraft 23' Sceptre W/ Alum Tower & Yamaha 225 www.LouveredProductsUnlimited.com
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#19
11-30-2014, 09:55 PM
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Quote:
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#20
11-30-2014, 11:40 PM
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Use Mystik JT 6 High Temp red when you go to grease those hubs up !!
Lil Kenny & I towed his LuCraft to the keys four years ago on a bad bearing down and back.....  As always at every stop would check tires and hubs, all seemed good. On the way down from Area 442 just before getting on the Turnpike above Miami a concerned driver was pointing to the trailer..  We pulled over and checked everything, no problem found. Tires and hubs cool as a cucumber....  Got to Skip & Carla's, same no obvious problems .. When we got back to Area 442 a week later and the trailer was backed in on the pad in front of the shop, I noticed the left 12 inch tire was tilted in.... Low and behold inner wheel bearing was gone..  With any other grease we would have been on the side of the road.. I swear by the RED JT-6 !! It is even sold at Walmart and Tractor Supply..
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See ya, Ken ©
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