New member, old owner, questions for the group. - Page 2

Bikecop1 · #11 07-13-2015, 08:57 AM

Thanks guys. It looks like this is a good one so I can't wait to get started. I plan on maybe trying some African mahogany for the front hatches and rear seats and adding a Bimini top. Checking on fiberglass companies in my area

Bikecop1 · #12 07-13-2015, 03:06 PM

Glass is new territory for me. So far all I have done are Feather Craft aluminum boats. I have a 59 Hawk II with fins and a 1951 Vagabond. Loken forward to a new adventure.

otterhound · #13 07-13-2015, 05:35 PM

Those Feather Crafts are very cool, nice job with them! I have a 1957 Bellboy Banshee on my to do list as well after 4 Seacrafts lol! Your dad's Seacraft will be very nice when it's done something to be really proud of.

cdavisdb · #14 07-13-2015, 07:50 PM

If you can restore those beauties, acquiring the skills to do that Seacraft will not present much problem. Go for it!

NoBones · #15 07-13-2015, 08:08 PM

Do not feel left out...
My first project boat in 1972 was a 15 ft 1961 Feather Craft !!
Sold it to do a 16ft 1964 Lone Star.....

then a LuCraft, Whaler & SeaCraft...

Just Do-It, make your dad proud, cause he is watchin'

Welcome to CSC by the way..

Old'sCool · #16 07-13-2015, 08:17 PM

Somebody with a supply needs to send this guy a hat or shirt for motivation

Bikecop1 · #17 07-22-2015, 07:30 AM

Went and looked at the boat this weekend again. Gonna try and pressure wash it next time I'm there. Some of the places where the gel coat is cracked and has actually come off worries me. I am much better at learning from visual aids. Are there any videos out there of fiberglass repairs you can steer me to? What products do you recommend to redo the gel? I am assuming it will be difficult to match the original gel coat so what do most people do to get it looking good? Paint? Have the whole thing recoated? Anybody in the Atlanta area i could come see your boat? Thanks for your help.

uncleboo · #18 07-22-2015, 10:22 AM

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/assets/...aintenance.pdf

Just one source. Good luck and make your dad proud!

Bikecop1 · #19 12-06-2015, 09:11 PM

The good, the bad, and the ugly. The floor still feels solid. Crazing is bad from sitting out. Before it can be moved I have to remove the boat from the trailer and replace the bunks. The bunks are crumbling to the touch. When I unscrewed the live well plate the transom is very soft and wet.

flyingfrizzle · #20 12-07-2015, 08:26 AM

Looks like at a minimum you will need to replace the transom.

There are several ways to do this so study up good and figure out the process you want to do give it a shot if you want to give it a go. The glass work is not hard just takes time and is messy. You can look threw past post up here and see some good step by step ways to do it.

Most replace the wood from the inside but some cut and do it from the back and then replace the skin. Also you can poor it from the top if you can manage to get the wood out with out removing any skin. I personally don't like the pour method and prefer cutting the inside skin for wood replacement.

The pour products will work but the products are heavy and weight on the back of a seacraft is not a good thing. There is a guy with triple 300hp outboards with a poured transom on a scarab hull that has so far held up to 1200hp and speeds in the 80's. So it would work but just getting the wood out with the skin in place would be hard unless it is complete mush.

I like to cut the inside skin and go back with Douglas fir marine ply or a high density foam for a core and then layer the glass over it and build up the back skin from the inside before the skin goes in. You can go thicker this way if wanted. If you come in from the rear you will be limited on thickness to the same as built (which will be plenty). Being yours has so much crazing on the rear skin it may be worth cutting it from the back and replacing it that way if you got to grind out the cracks and blisters any way. I just don't like cutting the original outer mold lay up for repairs. I feel like it is better to leave the full outer hull intact if possible. Also you will have to get the rear back flat and that makes for a lot of fairing and sanding where as the inside dose not require as much finish work. Getting the cap off to do it from the inside may be an issue and cutting the rear to access it if you don't pull the cap will cause work too so either way is going to take some work. There are fans up here that do it both ways with great success so you will have to decide far as that goes what will work best for you and the boat.

The main thing I wanted to express is that there is a wealth of information up here in past post and plenty of knowledgeable members willing to help. If you decide to go forward don't be afraid to ask questions and use the form for support.