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  #11  
Old 02-04-2016, 12:05 AM
BKROMKE BKROMKE is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2016
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We have her powerwashed, motor out, most hardware off. Now comes your help.

Transom core seems solid. Seems being the question. Do we glass over the IO hole and strap on a bracket or tear out 35 year old wood and do it right. I think we need to add knees an inner glass work for the bracket anyway so how much more work is redoing the wood core?

Same with gas tank. Get it refurbished or get a new one.

I'm leaning towards doing it right and getting a new tank. Redo transom too. We'll see.

How can I test the core of the transom?
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  #12  
Old 02-04-2016, 10:06 AM
CoreyTrx CoreyTrx is offline
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I would definitely put a new transom in if you are putting a bracket on. Chances are it's wet. You would rather do it now when everything is getting done then a few years down the road. Check around the I/O opening. That's where water got into mine and the drain tubes for the back storage bins. You can drill a few holes around to see if there's any wet wood. I thought mine was pretty solid but it was soaked heavy wood.

The tank you should pull and inspect for any corrosion. My tank had no corrosion so I just coal tar epoxied it and put it back in.
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  #13  
Old 02-05-2016, 10:41 AM
bgreene bgreene is offline
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Nice - bringing back a classic. There are some useful " how to video's " on line to actually see things being done.

Remember to wear appropriate clothing and most importantly, professional quality breathe masks... you don't need assorted particulates into your lungs.
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  #14  
Old 02-05-2016, 11:24 AM
Bigshrimpin Bigshrimpin is offline
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Location: Onset, MA
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Congrats on the new boat . . . looks like it's in great shape for sitting uncovered outside.
Should clean up great!


I went through this similar conversion on a 20 seafari 10 years ago. Like yours the transom on mine was solid, so I made a plug.










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  #15  
Old 02-05-2016, 11:53 AM
Bigshrimpin Bigshrimpin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BKROMKE View Post

How can I test the core of the transom?
Drill Bit . . . if the wood is dry and looks good . . . why bother removing a perfectly good transom just b/c it's 35 years old. Also if you have any small soft areas in the floor or deck . . . do a spot repair rather than ripping up an otherwise perfectly good floor.
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  #16  
Old 02-28-2016, 10:00 AM
BKROMKE BKROMKE is offline
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I cut the transom cap off after finding some rotted wood underneath the IO hole and the two drain holes for the wells on the transom cap; figured we may as well do it right the first time since we're going with a bracket. Here is my partner in crime Bella the boykin spaniel. She likes hanging around the junk yard. Hoping to get the core out today.
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  #17  
Old 02-28-2016, 10:40 AM
FLexpat FLexpat is offline
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Take a close look at the glassed in wooden blocks between the hull and liner where the scupper drains are - one of mine was complete mush and leaking into the hull and the other had just started to rot on the lower edge.

Interesting that the motor mount arrangement is VERY different from what was in my 76/77 Sceptre I/O. Also the transom core is not full height/full width - kinda looks like an OB core, but I guess it probably does not make much difference on that...
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  #18  
Old 02-28-2016, 01:58 PM
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Capt Chuck Capt Chuck is offline
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Quote:
Here is my partner in crime Bella the boykin spaniel.
Yep, those partners keep ya going!! Welcome to the CSC site and keep the boat porn coming...... She is looking good .

BTW: Here's my old crime partner enjoying the transom cut out
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  #19  
Old 02-28-2016, 06:37 PM
jnamowitz jnamowitz is offline
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Nice job. It cleaned up so nice
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  #20  
Old 03-02-2016, 11:54 AM
BKROMKE BKROMKE is offline
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Transom core is almost out completely, we just have to remove the lowest half a foot or so down at the bottom where the stringers attach to the transom. I have some questions about whether we should cut a 4-8 inch rear section of the stringers out to remove this old core and slide in new composite core or try to keep them intact?

It seems like most pics of other rebuilds indicate that you need to cut out a section of the stringers to make things easier and then repair with glass and "knees" once the new core is inserted...

Suggestions?
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