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#11
02-10-2017, 11:37 PM
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I got to work the past couple of days and put a good dent in the project.
Got the new coosa core laminated in and the old skin back in place. Also started scarfing in my joints. A few questions: What should the exact height of the new transom be? Factoring in the thickness of the fiberglass of course, what should my finished height be? Should it be measured from the keel along the angle of the transom to the top? Or measured from the keel perpendicular straight up to the top? Right now the new core is at about 25" when measured perpendicular and 26" when measured at the angle of the transom. When scarfing in the new glass into the splashwell, Should I stick with about 3" of glass around the entire permineter and try to scarf into all the grooves and curves where it meets the hatches? Or just stick with the straight parts of the Splashwell and fill in the edges with thickened resin? How perfect should I try to grind down my 12/1 scarf? Right now it looks pretty good, but obviously not a perfect even bevel. When applying new glass over scarfs, should I start with biggest pieces first, as recommended by West System, or start with smaller pieces and build up to the largest, as I have read elsewhere? A lot of work, which I expected, but comping along nice. See pics for progress: 
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#12
02-13-2017, 09:29 PM
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Your work looks great.
I have replaced 2 transoms from the outside like yours, and I filled the scrafs starting with small strips (2") and progress to larger (3" to 4" to 6"). 14 years on my 20SF using vinylester resin, and 7 years on 23WA using epoxy resin, no issues on either boat after hundreds of hours of use. The West Marine approach does not seem as strong to me. Keep the updates coming! Lloyd
__________________
1973 Seacraft 20' SF "Sea Dog" 1988 Tracker/Seacraft 23' WA "Salty Dog"
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#13
02-15-2017, 08:24 AM
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Quote:
Quote:
__________________
Current SeaCraft projects: 68 27' SeaCraft Race boat 71 20' SeaCraft CC sf 73 23' SeaCraft CC sf 74 20' SeaCraft Sceptre 74 20' SeaCraft CC sf
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#14
04-18-2017, 04:48 PM
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Do you have to re-gel coat the transom skin before painting
I'm a new Seacraft owner and eyeballs deep in the restoration of a 1978 Master Angler. I just realized my transom is pretty much mulch to the portside of the motor well. I found your thread interesting because for the sake of time and expense I need to replace my transom from the outside. I like your use of the coosa board and sectioning it with a second over-lapping layer. By sectioning, can you get a tighter fit along the edges with the coosa core? Once you've replaced the transom skin and faired it, did you re-gel coat the transom before painting? Is it OK to simply paint over the transom after fairing and not gelcoat. My boat was painted before it was put into storage and it's still in excellent condition and I'd rather not ad that step into my hurry to finish so I can get the boat in the water by mid-May. Any thoughts are appreciated
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#15
05-19-2018, 08:24 AM
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So, I completed this project a few months after I started the thread, and decided to upload the rest of the pics at add the the library of transom replacements on this website.
I know viewing others pics really helped me complete this project, so I figured I’d give back!
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#16
05-19-2018, 09:11 AM
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Here’s the rest of em
After one season, I had absolutely no issues with the repair Decided to hang a brand new etec 150 of the back and the boat absolutely flies! Last couple pics are before and after
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#17
05-19-2018, 10:55 AM
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Nice work! I am currently re-building a 1970 20SF , thinking leaning post livewell and possibly ETEC 150.
How does that boat sit at rest with the weight of your livewell and etec hanging off the back? Did you end up raising the transom to 26" as flying frizzle suggested. Do you have any performance numbers? Cheers
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