Post pics of your bunk trailers

[afterhours]

Hi Basketcase,

Mine is a 23, but principles are the same. I originally had my rear bunks set so they were just inboard of the 2nd chine resting on the middle panel. While apparently this is the best structurally, I found it did not center as well. Also, the further out you go, less of the bunk actually contacts the hull unless the bunk has alot of flex. See pic 1

My current setup has the back bunks just outside the most inboard chine, again resting on the 2nd hull panel. I think the structural support is almost as good and the boat always centers itself perfectly. I do have forward bunks that guide the bow into the center of the trailer. See pic 2

The only thing I would do different is change the cross member supporting the front of the forward bunk. Right now it is straight across. I would go for one that has a dip in the center so my bow could rest lower. See pic 3

My rear bunks are beveled and are set on end for strength as they carry most of the weight. The front bunks rest flat against the hull as their primary purpose is to guide the boat on the trailer. The carpet is covered with Teflon where it contacts the hull. This helps launching and retrieving when you can't quite get the boat to float off without a little shove.

[Basketcase]

This is all great info. Thanks everyone for the ideas.

[Basketcase]

Originally Posted by VancouverPotter23

Hi Basketcase,

Mine is a 23, but principles are the same. I originally had my rear bunks set so they were just inboard of the 2nd chine resting on the middle panel. While apparently this is the best structurally, I found it did not center as well. Also, the further out you go, less of the bunk actually contacts the hull unless the bunk has alot of flex. See pic 1

My current setup has the back bunks just outside the most inboard chine, again resting on the 2nd hull panel. I think the structural support is almost as good and the boat always centers itself perfectly. I do have forward bunks that guide the bow into the center of the trailer. See pic 2

The only thing I would do different is change the cross member supporting the front of the forward bunk. Right now it is straight across. I would go for one that has a dip in the center so my bow could rest lower. See pic 3

My rear bunks are beveled and are set on end for strength as they carry most of the weight. The front bunks rest flat against the hull as their primary purpose is to guide the boat on the trailer. The carpet is covered with Teflon where it contacts the hull. This helps launching and retrieving when you can't quite get the boat to float off without a little shove.

I was trying to do this same thing, but was having trouble fitting between the fenders. Now I see I was trying to go too low. Do you find you have to back in very far to launch/retrieve?

[afterhours]

I was trying to do this same thing, but was having trouble fitting between the fenders. Now I see I was trying to go too low. Do you find you have to back in very far to launch/retrieve?
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1971 Potter built center console.

I launch on both shallow and steep ramps. I have a very short draw bar which works in my favour in tight situations but a longer one would definitely be better for launching. See pic.

I back down the ramp until my rear tires on the truck are just touching the water, remove the safety chain and winch strap and give it a little shove and she just floats off. If the forward cross-member had a dip in it, I could lower the bow a bit and I think it would just float off without a shove. I don't like dipping my truck's brakes in the salt water because I generally don't rinse the truck and trailer until I get home.

For retrieval, I don't back down quite as far so I can see a bit of the front bunks and walk the boat along the dock onto the trailer. If there is no dock, I usually have someone in the boat to keep the stern straight. Once I get the bow between the front bunks, it centers perfectly on the rear bunks. I have to winch it the last foot or so. I have never tried driving the boat on or off the trailer but it comes off so easy it is not worth the bother.

Once I pull the trailer up onto the flat, I have to winch it a few more inches because of the sharp rake of the bow. Apparently if I had a double bow roller (one above the eye and one below the eye) on a pivot, this wouldn't be necessary or the distance would be minimal.

The trailer is a Venture 6000T with electric-hydraulic disc brakes. It comes standard with torsion axles and sealed hubs. The carpeted bunks have Teflon where the boat touches the bunks, which I think helps tremendously, especially on the retrieve because they are wet. Those pvc guide-on posts also help.

[77SceptreOB]

Here are some pics of my 23' Sceptre