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  #11  
Old 09-21-2018, 08:49 AM
strick strick is offline
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Nice looking forward to another of your re do's!

strick
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  #12  
Old 09-24-2018, 05:27 PM
abl1111 abl1111 is offline
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Geez. Trailer porn. Who knew ?!
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  #13  
Old 09-25-2018, 09:28 AM
Enyar Enyar is offline
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Where are you buying those trailer parts?

Good idea on the bed liner paint.
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  #14  
Old 09-25-2018, 11:13 AM
SeaPlusPlus SeaPlusPlus is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 77SceptreOB View Post
Thanks for the very detailed trailer rehab post, lots of good content. I think a lot of people neglect their trailers and pay the price on the road with vacation killing problems. Good job!
Yeah I've been guilty of that myself. My 20SF trailer definitely needs some love, decided to do this one right from the beginning.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DonV View Post
As Jim says, very nice trailer info. Those breaks are really, really nice. Now don't go and put them in the salt water!!!
Haha they will be spared the salt for a while.

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Originally Posted by Capt Chuck View Post
I think you know what your doing based on your top shelf upgrades and rehab of the 20'.
Just some food for thought , I would reconsider raising the stringers on the Savage. You can save yourself a lot of work. With proper plumb of the tru hull scuppers out the transom, The 23' will not give you wet feet thus maintaining the high gunwhales... I used Gemlux with the replaceable flaps were still above the waterrline. GLW the rebuild.
Good info, right now I'm torn with the idea of removing wet foam and just re-filling/glassing and doing a stringer rebuild to a grid system using Coosa. I really like the idea of getting the extra storage of the grid, but not 100% sold on the extra work/time/loss of foam. Right now I'm learning towards just cutting tops, re-filling, and re-glassing tops.

Quote:
Originally Posted by strick View Post
Nice looking forward to another of your re do's!

strick
Thanks! I'm looking forward to it as well!

Quote:
Originally Posted by abl1111 View Post
Geez. Trailer porn. Who knew ?!
Haha, for real. I've probably looked at the picture of both axles of brakes done 100x, thinking "Man, who knew trailer brakes could be so sexy?!"

Quote:
Originally Posted by Enyar View Post
Where are you buying those trailer parts?

Good idea on the bed liner paint.
Eastern Marine for most of the stuff including the hubs, brakes, hydraulic lines, hydraulic actuator, etc.

Axles from this ebay store, which had very reasonable shipping ($75 for (2) 94" axles shipped) and were packed extremely well so they arrived in perfect condition.

Bolt Depot for all the hardware.

And since noone likes posts from the thread OP w/o pictures. A teaser image:



She floats! Took her down the lake and moved her further back on the trailer after Florence stopped pissing on us. Tongue weight isn't perfect, but ridiculously better than it was, 600lbs of motor off her transom will help.

Pulled the trigger on (3) 3/4" sheets of 26lb Coosa for transom/bulkheads and (6) sheets of 3/4" honeycomb for deck/cap coring. 100% committed to a wood free boat, and you all better hold me to that.

Currently removing hardware and getting ready to start cutting. I also discovered last night why she feels a slightly heavier than I was expecting, currently has ~100G of something in the fuel tank, tank needs to be pulled so not sure what I'm going to do with that.
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  #15  
Old 09-25-2018, 01:59 PM
cdavisdb cdavisdb is offline
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You will like the tires that trailer will require, way more capacity than you will need, so the tires should be loafing no matter what you put in the boat or how fast you tow. Makes for a whole lot less flats and you might even be able to run decent speed with one tire out, in an emergency. One of these days, that will save your trip.
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  #16  
Old 09-25-2018, 03:01 PM
DonV DonV is offline
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Yes Sir Noah, great idea on composite all the way. First time I drove my brother's 23'er which was redone with all 26# coosa I could not believe how light and nimble his boat is over mine. You can actualy feel the difference of 600 to 700+ pounds in weight loss. Good luck.
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  #17  
Old 09-26-2018, 07:36 AM
captainDH captainDH is offline
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That was the most amazing, documented, and learning curve about a boat trailer that i have ever seen... holy moly.. please save some money for the boat!!! it would make me cringe at the thought of even dunking that trailer in salt water.. hell, i wouldn't even want to drive it when the roads are wet as to avoid them getting nasty dirty... kind of like don't pull your 40K custom harley out the garage when it's raining so you don't have to clean up the chrome after you ride.!
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  #18  
Old 09-26-2018, 10:53 AM
SeaPlusPlus SeaPlusPlus is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdavisdb View Post
You will like the tires that trailer will require, way more capacity than you will need, so the tires should be loafing no matter what you put in the boat or how fast you tow. Makes for a whole lot less flats and you might even be able to run decent speed with one tire out, in an emergency. One of these days, that will save your trip.
Good to hear!

Quote:
Originally Posted by DonV View Post
Yes Sir Noah, great idea on composite all the way. First time I drove my brother's 23'er which was redone with all 26# coosa I could not believe how light and nimble his boat is over mine. You can actualy feel the difference of 600 to 700+ pounds in weight loss. Good luck.
Awesome! Yeah hurt swiping the card for the composite coring, but I believe it will be worth it in the end.

Quote:
Originally Posted by captainDH View Post
That was the most amazing, documented, and learning curve about a boat trailer that i have ever seen... holy moly.. please save some money for the boat!!! it would make me cringe at the thought of even dunking that trailer in salt water.. hell, i wouldn't even want to drive it when the roads are wet as to avoid them getting nasty dirty... kind of like don't pull your 40K custom harley out the garage when it's raining so you don't have to clean up the chrome after you ride.!
Haha thanks, I cringed even dipping her into the lake after all that! Unfortunately it will have to hit the salt some day.

Did a little work last night. Cut all the wires/disconnected the hydraulic steering under the console and had a neighbor help me get it out of the boat. This thing is enormous, overall footprint is 43" wide x 53" long. I've been searching but can't find any other SeaCraft that has this type of console. I wouldn't think it was stock, except the deck has a fiberglass lip that matches the inside of the console.





My other "helper" showed up for a bit to lend a hand. You can also see the lip I was talking about for the console in this picture.



Pulling it out of the boat.



Yup, there's a tank in there.



Before I can start cutting up the floor I want to get the tank out, before I can get the tank out I need to get whatever is in the tank out. Got out my old trusty 12v crap fuel remover rig (cheap 12v fuel pump, 10' of fuel hose, and 15' of battery lead to keep everything WELL away from each other).





No water in it to speak of but unknown age = toss. I don't have enough room to store this much gas to dilute and use for lawn mower gas and don't trust it in my truck. The county recycling center has a 250 gallon gas/mixed gas tank so will be taking 20 gallons a day (emptied my two 5 gallon cans in my truck and borrowed two 5 gallon cans from the neighbor) up there on my way to work to dispose of it .



Last thing I did last night was get the rub rail off, went fairly quick, had to cut (2) stripped screws, really the hardest part was rolling it up.



Here's how she sits as of this morning.





Current items on the TO DO list before I start cutting.
  • Remove front "V" guide that bow is currently resting on and install center bunks to lift her bow a bit on the trailer
  • Finish pumping out tank and get it out

A question for the experts here. I can only leave her in my driveway for so long before the HOA starts complaining, so I've been trailering back and forth to where I store her (parking space at work). This works fine, but my question is about the feasibility of trailering the boat with the cap off. I plan on removing the cap to re-core it, and don't want any surprises when I put it back on. I plan on making some 2x4 supports that will hold the top of the hull in place to prevent it from growing, but will that be enough with the cap removed and floor cut out bouncing down the road?
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  #19  
Old 09-27-2018, 07:41 AM
flyingfrizzle flyingfrizzle is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaPlusPlus View Post
This thing is enormous, overall footprint is 43" wide x 53" long. I've been searching but can't find any other SeaCraft that has this type of console. I wouldn't think it was stock, except the deck has a fiberglass lip that matches the inside of the console.

It reminds me of an inboard console but on an outboard hull liner?
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  #20  
Old 09-27-2018, 02:51 PM
dirtwheelsfl dirtwheelsfl is offline
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Looks like an old inboard seavee/whitewater console...
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