1975 SF 18 going under the knife.

[uncleboo]

I would bond them together before final fit. Unless you plan on filling a bigger void, the bottom edge should be angled to match the hull so as to reduce gaps.

[chuckcallahan]

I will be sure to do that Uncleboo. Thanks.

[chuckcallahan]

For a Nida core deck, what do ya'll recommend as a backer plate for through bolts and screws, aside from laminated plywood? So not there yet, just planning ahead for needed supplies.

[strick]

You can buy fiberglass sheets or make your own fiberglass sheets.... also some people have used aluminum.

Strick

[chuckcallahan]

Thanks, Strick

Say for a leaning post, using the fiberglass, would 1/2" suffice?

[steel686]

I made my own glass angle for a few different uses and used it for backing grabrail, mounting filters, bilge pump, etc. When I recored the liner I put in Coosa strips at lean post bases but then drilled and overfilled. If I had known better I would have filled it with that stock as well. I’m putting a pylon back in but built a fiberglass C channel about 8” wide that spans between stringers. Picture shows it sitting between stringers but was mounted in plane with top of stringers when I bonded deck. I can get a better picture if you want.

[chuckcallahan]

Any suggestions on how to get the livewell out in one piece? Yes I will take the tools out before attempting.

[steel686]

Mine popped out pretty easily after carving at perimeter. There was one glob of Potter Putty holding it on the starboard side as you can see. Others have said it was a battle to pry loose. If you can get to it from transom side that should be the only hang up.

[erebus]

Mine popped out pretty easy too.
I think I used a few prybars and some chisels.

[uncleboo]

Mine held tight, was a pain.
http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...1&d=1611577671

Had to pry and pry and pry.