#11
|
|||
|
|||
Shearline after the shaping but before the blocking |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
I cut the transom to the original crown but it seemed a little too aggressive like she was a Blackwell. I ended up taking out another inch of crown |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
The sole was glasses on the bottom and glassed to the hull sides as well as to cleats underneath. Then I began coring the hull sides with h80 1/2”. |
#14
|
|||
|
|||
So the sole is glassed to the hull sides and then the cored sides were glassed to the sole. Holy sh$t did she just get strong. |
#15
|
|||
|
|||
Easiest way to template “one off panels” it with door skin strips and a hot glue gun. |
#16
|
|||
|
|||
|
#17
|
|||
|
|||
|
#18
|
|||
|
|||
|
#19
|
|||
|
|||
PVC was bedded and glassed to the bottom of the hatch gutters. Now I can router as many drain holes in from the top that will allow the hatches that will be bone dry. The PVC will go to a hose that will go to a sump box in the aft bilge. All gutters and drains will be plumbed to this sump box so the bilges will stay bone dry. The sump box will also have a valve that will allow it to be used a a backup emergency bilge pump. Note, I hate building gutters and hatches to a happily paid Jim Wells to build them for me. |
#20
|
|||
|
|||
Quick wipe of fairing to make life easier once I build the gunnel caps |
|
|