I Need A Shrink !

[Old'sCool]

I had pretty good success with Cetol on teak.

[grgrmouse]

Perfect as usual....

[strick]

I had pretty good success with Cetol on teak.

Thanks Reelscape that makes me feel better since I have never used it before.

Ordering parts still. Got the seat bases and pedestals in today along with some other goodies. Ordering hyd steering and controls soon. Spending the $$$

strick

[Bryan A.]

Cetol is the best for wearability. Easy to touch up too if need be.

[strick]

Yesterday was the first whole day I've had to work on the boat for several weeks. Mostly I've been pecking away at it late into the evenings after work. I have been getting lots of little things done which seem to take forever to do and don't seen like much at the time but they add up fast.

The brass drain tube scuppers in this boat were removed when I got the boat. I thought I could make my own flanging tool and ruined 2 brass tubes in the process so I said the heck with it and ordered a flanging tool from Hamilton marine. Just as important as the flanging tool is a good pipe cutter. I had a fairly new cheapo one from Home depot and ruined another brass tube because the cutting wheel had a slight wiggle to it which made it travel. I borrowed Bills old Rigid pipe cutter and was good to go.



Flanging tool.



Lots of 5200



This was an easy job once I had the right tools!







Port side



I started cutting some backing plates for the tower and cleats



I've been going thru lots of beer and water




There is going to be two blowers in this boat...one for the engine compartment and one for the fuel tank compartment.



Cutting holes for the fuel and water fills








Please excuse the crappy pictures. When this thing is finished I'm going to take a bunch of high resolution photos and post a link to it.


25 feet of fuel fill hose. I have about 4 feet left over.



This little guy works well for cutting fuel fill line.






Shots of some of the teak that I have installed so far.













hatch for the step down boxes. This will be used for storage.



forward bulk head and teak anchor locker



Drain's for the cockpit. The old set up had some holes drilled thru the floor




There is a fuel tank that goes directly under this. I had 1 1/4" clearance from the top of the tank to the to the bottom of the cockpit sole. So I had to cut off the bard to make these work. What water that ends up here will have to run onto the top of the fuel tank and then into the bilge. Not my best plan ever but that the way it's going to have to be





4200 sealant These are 1 inch drains











Mandalay Bay Las Vegas Nev





thats 499 photos I've up loaded to my server so far for this project

strick

[Islandtrader]

Not my best plan ever but that the way it's going to have to be

Sorta like building a house...you think you get right and then go "OH S**T"

Looking real fine other wise.

[Old'sCool]

If you'll anneal the brass tube ends before flanging it's a lot less likely to split. Heat to red with propane torch and immidiately quench in water, repeat, install, then flange end.
I've done many like this on some old Whalers and never had one split. It must be cut to length beforehand. The boat's looking great!!!

[Bushwacker]

I've had very good luck with Epifanes. It was rated best for durability by PowerBoat Reports, better than Honey Teak, which was their previous top pick. It also does not darken the wood as much as Honey Teak and is also easily repairable.

[wtenglish]

Everything is looking great!

Couple of questions:

1) In you restorations you wait to cut thru hull penetrations until after you paint. Is there a benefit by doing that instead of before you paint?

2) How many coats of Epifanes did you use? If multiple coats do you sand between applications? I've bought that product to use but they don't provide instructions.

[Bushwacker]

2) How many coats of Epifanes did you use? If multiple coats do you sand between applications? I've bought that product to use but they don't provide instructions.

The can of Epifanes I bought had some pretty detailed instructions on it. I used the gloss version but they also make a satin finish. As I remember it said to thin 1st coat 50%, 2nd coat 25% and 3rd coat 10%. I applied 7-8 coats total; between coats I just scuffed the surface with a red 3M pad or wet sanded w/180 grit any areas that weren't real smooth. Did more wet sanding between the first few coats and mostly scuffing between last few coats. I used foam brushes and it turned out well. Did most of it 4 years ago and it's still holding up well, although a few spots need touch up, especially on the door frame, which was done with Honey Teak. I do keep it covered, but the Epifanes is the most durable stuff I've found, and I've tried just about everything over the last 35 years, including Deks Olje No. 1 & 2, and various teak oils. Seems like the teak oils oxidize and turn dark, even if you keep them covered! The varnish is more work up front, but over the long haul it's a lot less work, and I think it looks better.

BTW, be carefull about using the aggressive 2-part teak cleaners, which soften the soft part of the grain. I sanded my teak cockpit boards with 60 grit to get them smooth because they were pretty "scalloped" in the soft areas from the many years of using aggressive cleaners. Probably would have been easier to have run them thru a planer!