|
|
#21
10-23-2012, 08:18 PM
|
|||
|
|||
Over the last few days I have just been grinding. Stringers are all done in preps for raising and glassing them. And I'm half way done grinding for the height of the new deck. For those that have raised the deck, how high should I grind on the sides so I can get decent glass on both the deck and sides when it comes time? Basically what width of glass did you use to join the new deck to the sides?
  
|
|
#23
10-23-2012, 09:37 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Why raise the the floor & glass / grind like Don has stated? I like the Carl Moesly design.. Put pvc 90* angle and run them out the transom by criss-crossing the scupper drains
(Port drains to stbd- stbd drains to port) You also can add the Rabud ball fittings. Read the Scupper threads from the search function. Think about it 
__________________
   1978 23' Superfish/Potter Bracket 250HP -------- as "Americans" you have the right to ...... "LIFE, LIBERTY and the PURSUIT of a Classic SeaCraft" -capt_chuck
|
|
#24
10-23-2012, 10:16 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
I like the moesly design as well, but if I can eliminate two holes below the waterline, I'd rather do the extra work and raise the deck and have two holes above the waterline.
|
|
#25
10-23-2012, 10:34 PM
|
|||
|
|||
One downside to raising the deck on a 20 CC is that, unlike the Seafari which has a raised padded coaming that's about knee-high, the gunnel on the CC is pretty low to start with. If you raise the deck too much, the coaming will end up down around your ankles! That high coaming is nice when you're fighting a big fish!
__________________
'72 SeaFari/150E-Tec/Hermco Bracket, owned since 1975. http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...Part2019-1.jpg
|
|
#26
10-23-2012, 10:51 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
While th thru hull scuppers are a pita I don't see the point in raising the floor. since you have access now, I think Dr Gucci's scupper options will save a lot of time, money and be safer for passengers. I'm not a big fan of the through hull scuppers but they are effective underway.
I think you just plug 'em and run drains out the back. Criss-cross tubing or just go straight out and add a pair of Rabuds. Dang, that was a lot of foam. Nice clean work. Keep them updates comin. While you're going for it, I think strick mentioned raising your transom to 25" - best advice of all me thinks... 25" transoms are a no-brainer, especially if you have the skills to do it yourself. Shaft extension is a cheap improvement and insurance policy. Cheers McGill
__________________
there's no such thing as normal anymore... Last edited by McGillicuddy; 10-23-2012 at 10:58 PM.
|
|
#27
10-24-2012, 05:26 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
On my 20sf I raised mine 2 inches. The boat self bails. It's a lot of work and I chose not to do it on the 20 sceptre that I am currently restoring. Mostly because I'm being lazy. On the 20 sf you have to watch your freeboard so I went 2 inches instead of three. Good luck....your in deep now and I'm sure it will turn out nice.
strick
|
|
#28
10-24-2012, 06:12 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Hey strick, how high do I need to grind on the sides to ensure a good strong bond between the deck and sides? I'll be adding 2.25 inches to the stringers plus a half inch deck plus glass top and bottom. In short, what width glass strips should I cut to make it good and strong? Thanks
|
|
#29
10-24-2012, 06:24 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Feather 12-1. IE 1/4" = 3in. min.
|
|
#30
10-24-2012, 07:03 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
I don't really know what the example of 1/4 inch indicates. I understand how to feather it in good. I guess what I really need to know is how wide should the glass strip be. Does it need to be 12 inches wide or will a 6 inch wide piece do just fine. Thanks
|
 |
|
|
Linear Mode
