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#21
01-26-2019, 07:48 PM
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This is the piece that weighed eighty nine pounds
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#22
01-26-2019, 07:56 PM
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Don’t forget to RSVP for the party
Fiber glass grinding party in Boynton next weekend scallywags
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#23
01-30-2019, 01:23 PM
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Tabbing question at transom
What is the right way to lay cloth/tab at the transom rakes/chines at the underside/outside of the hull when you remove the transom totally without build up on the bottom rear of the transom to hull area?
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#24
01-30-2019, 08:27 PM
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Quote:
Grind out a taper where your overlaps will be. Roundover the corners just enough to wrap glass around. You can use a straightedge to see how your taper is while youre grinding, ideally it will be just a bit deeper than the thickness your new glass will be built up. You dont want the new glass totally flush with the hull or it will print thru badly, you wanna leave a lil bit of a low for fairing compound/primer to build up...
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#25
01-30-2019, 09:45 PM
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Quote:
Thanks Dirtwheels Nice rebuild BTW Was concerned that there was a special lay up to do like tabbing the inside of the transom or redoing stringers etc a friend of mine did some work a long time ago and I’ve always had a big tit down there lol I’ve never done any reglassing like that on the outside of a hull and appreciate the feedback
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#26
02-05-2019, 08:17 PM
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Transom Help and first series of questions
I removed the rotted layers of wood and glass
-I am down to the original transom that is hard as the day it was made. The original wood is white and looks new. My mind is totally blown now. Lol Everything put on top of it rotted and from poor glass work -transom was built up to over 6 inches by someone (name I won’t even mention) 1. Do I remove everything down to outside original transom skin (maybe 30 to 40 percent left and build from there? Original lower area at chines is Sweeeet looking just needs some fine tuning. 2. Tabbing I have been reading and spoke with my local fiberglass supplier They recommended start with a big 12 inch tab After installing two layers of coosa (two layers my choice)then work smaller tabs -Yes I know to add filets -Is a big tab needed? 3.Dumb question can cut out be patched in Original knuckle head added 3/4 on outside and a 2x6 across the transom cut out Then laminated three layers of plywood over the inside and cut out then added a half sheet that was not fully knotched to transom pattern where it meets inside liner. He used wood glue paste for wood boats the biaxled over it -I knew he was a lazy arse wen I got it so I went over his work (which looked good at the time unpainted and faired) I put on another three layers of biaxyl then Matt and faired it in also numerous layers of tabbing over his (his tabbing looked like an inbred did it) All in all it held a bracket and numerous motors in some really great and not so great seas underway and anchored
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#27
02-05-2019, 08:23 PM
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Transom questions
Questions are part of lower post
Sorry not to good at this yet but here is a photo
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#28
07-11-2020, 03:12 PM
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Light Weight Babayyyyyyyyyyyyyy!
Hats off to whoever removed the top cap by themselves!
Wasn’t as light as I thought it would be. Back at it and have a splash date January 2021!
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#29
07-11-2020, 03:15 PM
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Back at it!!!!
Thanks for everyone sharing there rebuilds from the beginning of this site to present. I’ve gained a lot of knowledge from everyone. Well now that I have a lot of free time and I’m working from home. I figured I might as well Go All In!
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#30
07-11-2020, 03:57 PM
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For tabbing I always start short and overlap each previous tab. That way you have fresh bonds for each tab. For scarfs, there’s a formula somewhere that goes like - take the thickness of the panel and multiply by the “X” factor and that’s how far out you cut your scarf. That gives plenty of bonding area to connect the panels together. More is better in this case. Happy grinding.
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