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  #21  
Old 12-07-2017, 10:56 AM
DonV DonV is offline
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What Flexpat says is correct. I've had no experience with the 20'ers, only the 23', and the inner skin was very thin, outer skin a different story, very thick. Remember I took off the outer skin on my transom. I would do as others suggest, lay a layer of 1708 on the inner skin, cover every hole, tuck the 1708 in in the corners. Arjay is bad ass stuff, however it will find any hole you have. The holes such as the "D" rings on the transom I just used a 2" x 2" duct tape on those.

Just for grins I looked at the price of the Arjay at FGCI in St. Pete yesterday while I was there, it was $180 for the 5 gallon pail, I have the catalog from 2009 and I paid just less than $120. Ouch!
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  #22  
Old 12-07-2017, 07:29 PM
Rybones Rybones is offline
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Thanks for the answer on the transom hight Flexpat. I think I'll go the 26". As for the glass layup, I was talking about doing the from the inside-side of the of bothe the inside skin and also on the outside skin but your point on where it is easier to work on from and get the best finish. And yes, the jack plate definatly acts as a lever. It had a static JackPlate on it for 10 years that was fully lifted the entirre time to compensate for the 25" shaft. That is part of my concern and the reason for my expediencey to address this so that leverage doesnt lead to some catastrophic failure where I become reliant upon mermaids..
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  #23  
Old 12-07-2017, 08:19 PM
Rybones Rybones is offline
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DonV, Thank you for the info on which cloth you think is best and well as your points about tucking it down in the corners. Good advice. As for the the price on the Arjay, its still less that the $233.50 per 5 that they are getting for Seacast. I'd be looking a 3 containers so that is a $150 difference. Does the Arjay have any fiber in it as the Seacast does? I like that aspect. And does anyone know how similar are these compunds to coosa board?
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  #24  
Old 12-07-2017, 08:34 PM
gofastsandman gofastsandman is offline
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You want the feather/scarf at least 12-1. More is better here.
Are you going with poly, VE, or epoxy?

Both skins should be the same thickness/ schedule for optimum flexural strength.

Ask more questions plz.

Agreed on the do a hatch cover first for the rodeo learning curve.

I got ambitious and used a newer product for my teak dash frame.
I have used varnish a bit and researched the heck outta awl wood from awlgrip.

10 coats brushed on before blocking. 3 more before 3 coats of Upol UV bumper clear.
Looks amazing.
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  #25  
Old 12-07-2017, 08:53 PM
Vezo, Part II Vezo, Part II is offline
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Hey GFS, got pics? I have not done wood finishing since my 1982 Whaler interior refurb back in ‘04. Two coats Mas epoxy with UV inhibitors. 12 coats Flagship Captains Spar. Almost all 5/4 Mahogany, looked better than factory because I duplicated interior but hid every single stainless steel fasteners from eyesight and weather. Wish I would have put it in my living room!

We need to split a room for Mother’s Day? HaHa

Vezo
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  #26  
Old 12-07-2017, 09:24 PM
kmoose kmoose is offline
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Oiled teak is all I would consider on a deck unless it was a trailer queen used for joy riding to the sand bar. No hard finish I have seen would hold up to the rigors on a fishing boat. Once it’s finish is comprised to the wood it would pull in water and go dark. It would be higher maintenance than a Puerto Rican prom queen.
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  #27  
Old 12-07-2017, 09:35 PM
Vezo, Part II Vezo, Part II is offline
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LMAO! How are ya? Yes it was a meticulously maintained ground up, over, inside, and new interior from wood I inherited from my Dads wood shop, back in ‘04. Could have been a yachts tender.

The teak deck in the Bertram actually was faux 4X8 sheets. He never sealed it I don’t believe. But here in SC it cut his ass. His girl finally would reach over transom into cock pit from swim platform, and “spill the cooler” before entering! Took top award for fiberglass at ACBY Mt. Dora two years in a row. THAT should have been the yacht tender!
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  #28  
Old 12-07-2017, 09:36 PM
Rybones Rybones is offline
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GoFastSandman, I have a 3 hatches that I can and will do first. Epoxy and for the transom it was my understanding of 15 or even 20 to 1, for adhesion strenght. ANd will do on the skins being the same thickness.
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  #29  
Old 12-07-2017, 09:56 PM
DonV DonV is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rybones View Post
DonV, Thank you for the info on which cloth you think is best and well as your points about tucking it down in the corners. Good advice. As for the the price on the Arjay, its still less that the $233.50 per 5 that they are getting for Seacast. I'd be looking a 3 containers so that is a $150 difference. Does the Arjay have any fiber in it as the Seacast does? I like that aspect. And does anyone know how similar are these compunds to coosa board?
Well one is very stiff and very expensive and needs lots of exterior fiberglass bonding, one is not as expensive and far from stiff....until it hardens.

I would go on their web site and send an email to the sales guys [email protected] and get the technical data sheets on strength, compression, density, etc. I bought my Arjay in Sarasota, 8 five gallon pails because we did my brother's boat at the same time, and the guy had a sample about 12" square, 1 1/2" thick with 1708 on both sides as a display to mimic a transom. Then he hands me a hammer and tells me to give it a wack, not even a mark. I do remember the compression numbers and density were off the chart. Coosa Bluewater 26 is 26 pounds per cubic foot, duh, I think Arjay is very similar.
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  #30  
Old 12-07-2017, 10:45 PM
Rybones Rybones is offline
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DonV, Did you use epoxy or poly with the two boats? And yes, I will call Arjay and speak with them before I do anything.
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