#21
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BigShrimpin is right - If the '71 is like my '72 there is no substantial wood in the stringers to rot, and there is so much glass there that even if there were it is not structurally significant. My '72 has some wood core on the sides of the step down/step area, and in the front of the fuel tank box but that is about it.
I believe the stringers should be foam filled like mine are. My transom was rotten and I had that professionally redone at a cost of about $3500 in NJ. He used marine plywood, since I was not able to spring for composite cores. (I have kids in college) Once that was done, the rest of the rehab I did myself - and it was mostly a pleasure, with lots of help from the gurus on this forum. Here are some before and afters of the transom - which I had raised to 25 inches. If you decide to skip the bracket, make sure you raise the transom 1-1.5 inches ABOVE the recommended height. I.E. if the outboard height is 25 inches, make the transom 26.5 inches high. You will be glad you did when it comes time to dial in the outboard height. Finally, post some photos! We love Seafari Porn! |
#22
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This is the scupper support area in my old 1972 seafari. You might carefully inspect this area . . . see the cracked potter putty. I removed the old bronze tubes and banged in PVC. I made custom plugs for the PVC. I also like the idea of a transom mounted engine over a bracket.
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#23
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Good call. I’m looking forward to watching.
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#24
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Outboards too heavy and too much HP for Seafari
Locke n Load
It is good you are sharing some of your ideas for responses. CSC members have differing opinions based on their experience and boat usage. There is some excellent advice if you search for it. For various reasons there are modification projects that never get completed. Less time and money will be spent by not prematurely launching into screwy projects. And as I have heard from Carla Moesly (paraphrased), repair or modify or boat to serve your needs, but not to flip it, because you’ll never get out of it what you put in it! As SSPBill remarked, check out Bushwacker’s posts on brackets, engine weight, etc. Bushwacker is the former CSC performance moderator who converted his 20’ Seafari to a full transom and bracket, but continued to use his ETEC 150. He liked the full transom and the platform, but his CG moved about 11” aft and found he needed to run faster to maintain a minimum plane even with trim tabs. I posted “Estimating CG Shift with Heavy Engines” which shows how to estimate the CG shift for moving the engine to a bracket or for relocating other heavy items. Based on these calculations you’ll understand where to temporarily locate weight to predict the effects of your anticipated changes. WEIGHT- The narrow Seacrafts were designed when outboards engines were in the 300# range. My ETEC 150 HO is 418#. But the engines you mentioned are too heavy, the Verado 400 is 668# and the Suzuki 350 is 727#. Bet your '71 scuppers will no longer be self bailing. HORSEPOWER- The HP of the aforementioned Suzuki and Verado are way more than needed for a Seafari. At WOT I can hit 41-42 mph on lake conditions with either a properly propped High Five or Inertia. I originally hit 50 mph with the ETEC; but not only was the original prop overpitched thereby not achieving recommended RPM, but it felt too fast for good boat handling. Search out comments on chine walking which occurs at high speeds. There may be some guys with 200s, but would think 175 is a recommended max. Keep researching and thinking. Kind of like the old saying, “Measure twice and cut once” or my Dad’s tongue in cheek version, “Darn it, I’ve cut it twice and it’s still too short!” |
#25
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Thanks everyone. I did a lot of reading last night on here checking out completed projects Still plenty more to do. I think the notched transom is the correct path for me to follow. Dealing with CG shifts, a bracket, etc. will be saved for the next all-in project.
The big HP engines was my attempt at humor. I am thinking the Mercury 150 4 stroke would be the ideal engine. Whether I go new or come across a deal on a used engine I cannot pass up is still to be determined. Plenty to do before that point. I am going outside now so I will take some more "before" pics and share. Thanks again everyone. |
#26
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Off to a good start. In addition to the transom, the deck needs to be replaced. It is soft in a couple of places there were screws. A whole new deck makes sense since the engine opening needs to be done as well. I think this will be a good opportunity to move the fuel tank forward and make it larger. TBD.
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#27
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Cool project! As to the engine discussion, I run a Johnson 2-stroke 115hp and with a 3 blade aluminum prop (not exactly the most high-performance!) I get planing at around 14-15 knots, and cruise at 22-25 knots. Top speed is around 34-35 knots. Plenty fast for me in this hull. Dogbomb on this site has a Suzuki 140hp, and he loves that motor - you might look at those in your quest to power this boat. Most folks with this hull consider 150hp the most anyone really needs, and there are some guys with 90hp's that love them.
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#28
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It really is surprising how little horse power is required to push these boats well. I’d go as light as possible. I run a 3 cylinder 90 hp 2 stroke on my 18 and to be honest I think a 70 would push it just fine. Running in ocean conditions I almost think I’d rather have a 70 2 stoke than a 115 2 stroke. I personally can’t imagine putting a 150 four stroke on the stern although I’m sure people have done it.
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#29
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It is funny going back and reading some of my original ideas. I am very glad I listened to the advice offered and kept my Seafari intact. I can't believe it has been four years. Covid really screwed things up for a while. Last spring I really got back into it and now that the winter break is almost over and I am getting back out there it was good to have some inspiration from this old thread. Fingers crossed this summer she will be back on the water.
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#30
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How about a few pics?
__________________
1975 SF18/ 2002 DF140 1972 15' MonArk/ 1972 Merc 50 http://i833.photobucket.com/albums/z...photos/SC3.jpg |
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