Time for another (1979 23' Resto)

[SeaPlusPlus]

The plot thickens on this boat (and gets even more confusing).

Originally Posted by ScottM

Sceptre

If that is true, then this boat is not actually a Savage, but rather a converted Sceptre.

HIN on this boat begins with SECR:



So that means someone converted it to a "Savage", which explains the weird console. I guess the person also went to the trouble of fiberglassing in a lip for the new console into the deck as seen here:



Can anyone confirm that the R in the HIN does indeed stand for Sceptre?

Doesn't really change any of my plans, now I don't feel as bad for cutting it up being that it's not a rare "true" Savage. Been traveling for work, but got all the gas drained and disposed of, progress pics coming soon!

[SeaPlusPlus]

Christmas came early again in the form of material order from forum member shine's store Gulfstream Composites.



General rundown of materials is:

• 30 gallon kit (which is shipped as (5) 6 gallon kits) of Raka Epoxy with the 350 non-blush hardener

• 50 yards of 50" wide 1708 (125lbs of cloth)

• 10 yards of 50" wide 12 oz Biaxial cloth (will use to make tape for tabbing, etc)

• 10 yards of 50" wide 6oz cloth (for laying down tight radii on hatch lids, hatch gutters, etc)

• 2.5lbs of Cabosil

• 5lbs of Wood Flour

• 3" and 6" lamination rollers

• Lots of mixing cups, chip brushes, and foam rollers

I guarantee I'll have to put in another other of materials at some point but I should be good on most stuff for a long while. Start cutting tonight!

[DonV]

I thought I heard a noise from far, far away.....might have been your bank account screaming!!! Good luck!!

[SeaPlusPlus]

Originally Posted by DonV

I thought I heard a noise from far, far away.....might have been your bank account screaming!!! Good luck!!

Haha yeah for sure. Gonna have to start re-categorizing boat spending in our budgeting software as "Investments" or something before the wife catches on.

All the gas is out of the tank, haven't pulled it yet, wanted to get some demo of the cap done before I start ripping up the floor so I would have something to stand on. Starting cutting this weekend.

Getting the rest of the coaming bolsters off:



Cutting out the "Sceptre portion" on the starboard side of the cap:



Pretty much gone. Was gonna leave that little vertical part of the cap that's hanging in these pictures and try and use it as a guide for cap modification, decided against it and am just gonna build a temp mold around the cap when I pull it.





Out of the boat:



Repeated the process on the other half, ending up with:



I know I'm making a CC the hard way, but it's what I want, it's going to end up being EXACTLY what I want, and the price on this hull was right, well below anything I could find for a CC.

Before:



After:





Current major planned steps are (in order):

• Leave the cap how it is for now, to be pulled and modified/re-cored later.

• Pull the tank, clean up/inspect.

• Cut out the floor, leaving most of the liner in place. It will be removed completely later, but want it there to keep stiffness until new cap/sole is in.

• Perform stringer work (not sure of the extent of this yet, still undecided on full redo into grid vs re-foaming current large trapezoidal).

• Perform transom re-core work.

• Pull cap, leave partially cut liner in, and putting in supports across the hull to keep from deforming.

• Modify/re-core cap.

• Pull liner and immediately reinstall new cap to ensure hull keeps it's shape.

• Core the hull sides to replace stiffness lost from liner.

• Layup and install new sole.

Please point out if you think any of those would be better/easier in a different order.

Very long and work intensive road ahead but I'm glad to be on it and have a clear vision of a kick ass "forever boat" at the end of it. I'm trying to get as much done as possible on the hull before it gets too "cold" here. The 350 non-blush hardener states it will cure down to 60F. We have day time temps that high here till around mid-late December, and using the old tarp and heater trick during the night I should be able to have around 2 more months of hull work that I can reliably perform. After it gets too cold I'll move to the garage and start fabricating a console/leaning post for the boat over the winter. Hoping to get the tank out before the weekend and get the floor cut out by the end of the weekend.

Thanks for looking!

[Oldboat]

Originally Posted by SeaPlusPlus

Christmas came early again in the form of material order from forum member shine's store Gulfstream Composites.



General rundown of materials is:

• 30 gallon kit (which is shipped as (5) 6 gallon kits) of Raka Epoxy with the 350 non-blush hardener

• 50 yards of 50" wide 1708 (125lbs of cloth)

• 10 yards of 50" wide 12 oz Biaxial cloth (will use to make tape for tabbing, etc)

• 10 yards of 50" wide 6oz cloth (for laying down tight radii on hatch lids, hatch gutters, etc)

• 2.5lbs of Cabosil

• 5lbs of Wood Flour

• 3" and 6" lamination rollers

• Lots of mixing cups, chip brushes, and foam rollers

I guarantee I'll have to put in another other of materials at some point but I should be good on most stuff for a long while. Start cutting tonight!

You will use it all and then some

[strick]

Watching with great interest as I have the same boat sitting here. Wondering if the liner is too much trouble to re use. would save lots of fairing....cut and paste if you will?

strick

[SeaPlusPlus]

Originally Posted by strick

Watching with great interest as I have the same boat sitting here. Wondering if the liner is too much trouble to re use. would save lots of fairing....cut and paste if you will?

strick

Possibly, would definitely take some serious cutting and pasting up front where the cabin was. Something to think about as that would definitely same me some serious fairing time.

Did some work this weekend. Started with the trailer, as I mentioned before, I didn't like how the keel sat on the PVC "V" up front so I decided to replace it with some front keel bunks. In addition I wanted to raise the boat up a little more on the trailer because the stern was very close to the rear most cross member as well as holding water in the keel up front as this was lower than the stern. I purchased some 10" bunk brackets to replace the 8" ones that were currently on the trailer (the old ones had some heavy corrosion in some places anyways).

Borrowing my friend's trailer stands made the process of lifting the boat extremely easy, not to mention safe. Wish I knew he had these when I initially replaced the main bunks, gonna help for bottom work for sure.

Stands getting bolted on:



Lifting it up:





Test fitting to get the length right:



Made the forward bunks out of pressure treated 2x6 and covered in the same outdoor carpet as my main bunks. Used counter sunk 3/8" stainless bolts to hold the brackets to the bunk, I try to through bolt anything I can.



One complete bunk:



Both bunks installed, main bunk brackets replaced, boat now sits 2" higher than before and is no longer resting on the keel up front. You can see where it has some trailer rash from that PVC guide, hopefully that issue is resolved.



I then moved inside the boat to tackle getting the tank out. In order to gain access to the front of the tank, and give me some more room around it I cut the hatch lip going around the tank, as well as a good portion of the storage in front of the tank.

Obligatory about to cut glass pic (also you can see in the background the wife decorated for Halloween, our porch isn't normally a crime scene):



Cut, cut cut:





Bare plywood bulkhead, surprisingly good shape for being in the bilge for the last 40 years, this was underneath the storage area I cut out.



Not sure if I broke this pulling on the storage compartment breaking it free of the potter putty or if it broken in the past:



This also greeted me under the storage compartment. Some sort of transducer or something, not sure. It's completely in cased in resin, and the area around it is a pool of resin. Wire is cut going to it at about 8" long, so no idea what it went to in the past. Need to climb around underneath the hull and see if I can find the exterior of it.



Reached post image limit, continuing in next post.

[SeaPlusPlus]

Let the tank pulling begin, after a failed attempt at using a winch I went with the tried and true "floor jack method", worked like a champ.



Working my way down the tank breaking each area free of the foam.


Used my degree in redneck structural engineering to put this contraption together to break it completely free of the foam:





I finally beat it:



Spent a little time cutting up the deck before calling it a day. As you can see, and unfortunately for me, the bonding between the deck and potter putter so far is really good, no gaps like other people have found.



Thanks for looking!

[erebus]

That's a great trick with the floor jack and the strap.
Definitely filing that one away for later.

[Snookerd]

Originally Posted by erebus

That's a great trick with the floor jack and the strap.
Definitely filing that one away for later.

Ditto!