Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions

[Fishjack]

More Pics of "I guess" progress -

Scott - I will have to dig around to see what is in there? Not sure yet will advise.

Warthog - I like the idea of a thru-hull X-ducer.. How do they perform at speed?

Cut further down towards the bottom of the hull - you can see that one of the old 1" brass drains had a crack in it -


Can anyone say core trouble? I knew I had some soft spots on the cap.. I will tackle this project later.


Cut out the Ice boxes - Below I scraped some of the foam that is in the inside corners. Water is standing in a recess under the deck just to the right of the exposed foam.
You can reach your hand in there and feel it. The starboard side is dry as a bone. Is there some sort of drain that might be clogged???


Here is a little cleaner shot of the factory thru-hull transducer??
Also a lot of other transom jobs I have seen pics of have two stringers instead of the single stringer in the center that my boat has?


It is a B**ch getting that wood out of the bottom of the transom..


Another question - the inner skin (which is all I have left) is very thin. Should I just cut that out or try and bond my new plywood to it??

Thanks for the responses.. Jack

[Scott]

Jack
If I recall I think Capt Chuck heard direct from either Hermco or B Potter that the center stringer in the bilge was reinforcement for trailering. Chuck can confirm that. Several of the boats don’t have that center stringer. Now that little box fabricated into the bottom and stringer …that’s interesting.

Your Bilge drain … that doesn’t look so hot

Great pictures!!!

[ob1jeeper]

FJ,
Thin as the inner skin is, I believe it's important to get a good bond to the core.

I made a core template then dry fitted each core piece, then bonded the layers of core material together, outside the boat. I then dry-fitted the bonded core, trimming as required, then clamped it in place.

Since you have your bracket, I would also dry-fit it, while the core is clamped / dry-fitted into place. Mark and drill the bracket holes in the core & inner skin, and use these holes as well to clamp it all together.

Additionally, I marked and drilled the inner skin in an approx 4" grid, (in the "reachable areas").

Then when it as all dryfitted and ready for resin, I slathered both pieces liberally, set the core in place, used the bracket holes with large washers, to clamp it in place, and finsished it off using 3/4" screws with fender washers, in every other previously drilled inner skin hole, to "clamp" the inner skin to the new core.

While that was curing, I fabbed the outer skin replacemment, dry fitted & pre-drilled it for the bracket holes, and before mounting it, again drilled the skin on an approx 4-6" square pattern, and secured it with 3/4" screws (& fender washers) to the core in the alternate holes to allow the excess resin and air pockets to escape from the un-used holes.

When it all set up, I removed the screws & fender washers, then back-filled the holes. The inners I simply sealed up with a 2" square patch of resin soaked glass as no one is going to see them anyway, and the excess holes in the outer skin was an easy grind, fair fill, & level before final finishing.

Hope this wasn't too confusing...

[warthog5]

Warthog - I like the idea of a thru-hull X-ducer.. How do they perform at speed?

The one I have installed in a 25ft Mako was outstanding at any speed. It painted a pretty pix on a 600L
Jim say's he has sold a whole bunch of them now.

[Fishjack]

Jeeper - Thanks not confusing at all makes good sense.

warthog - I assume I will need the B-60 - 20º tilted version (for 16º to 24º deadrise)?

[Fishjack]

OK - I'm going to slow down with the pics.

I'm sure they are getting boring (same old stuff) and post some of the issues I am pondering -

1)Hatches - I see a lot of people fab their own hatches - I don't know if I am up to that level of comfort with glass yet.

I am planning on installing two hatches one in the deck behind the stock hatch to access bildge etc. and another vertically in the enclosed transom area. I am looking at the Bomar 9.75"x19.5" for the floor area and the T-H Marine 10"x27.25" for the (vertical) front of the enclosed transom. Anyone have any experience with these - any know issues? Any other suggestions?

2) Livewell - I have a Kodiak Oval 35 gal that I have been using in the old (now removed) splashwell.
I cannot come up with a good way to use this livewell on my deck - Before I ran the overflow hose out the back of the boat. It was a good temporary setup. Now I am installing a clamshell water pickup to provide water to the livewell. I cannot come up with a creative way of having access to a drain (overflow) out of the boat.

I would love to have a livewell intergrated in the new enclosed transom. But again - don't know that I am up to the task of fabrication an oval livewell to fit my transom.

I like being able to hook up the livewell when needed and remove it when not needed it's just the plumbing of a temporary livewell that looks neat that I cannot figure out.

[Capt Chuck]

Fishjack

I assume I will need the B-60 - 20º tilted version (for 16º to 24º deadrise)?

You don't need to angle if you mount the ducer thru the center of the keel. It's a two beer job

"Other Tom" taught me how to do it. Works flawlessly at all speads with my Furuno 582L.


Measure and cut thru keel from the underneath



Glass it in flush with the bottom


Fill in any gaps and paint to edge

[warthog5]

Jack you know what I told you about the rear hatch on the transom drop down panel. Make it big! much easier to work in there. Those are 4 TH Marine latch's you see



On the livewell. You said you want to be able to remove it.

Unstead of putting it all the way at the back. Move it foward some. This will help get the weight off the ass end of the boat and also create an island.
If you've put mullet in a livewell before you know how they have a way of jumping out sometime's. With the island setup at least they will fall on the deck and you will still have them. Sometome's they will jump out and over the side to be lost if the livewell is close to the side of the boat in someway.

This is my inlet with the 3/4in Seacock and the drain is the 1 1/2in seacock.



You could have the drain where it comes even with the deck. A flush plug goes in when you remove the tank. When using the tank a large barbed fitting screws in when the plug is removed. I have the Kodiak 42-2. The fitting's are all below deck. I'm not planning to remove the tank. It will sit just in front of the NASA hatch you see in the floor.

No offence ment capt_chuck but I would never do a thruhull X-ducer like that.

Here's mine. I built a box to perfectly fit the X-ducer and glassed it into the hull.





The B-60-20 is what you will want, but it will not go in the keel. It's made to go out to the side of the keel.

[Fishjack]

Thanks for the replies guys –

Capt Chuck – I appreciate the “center keel” option but I don’t really want to cut my keel stringer out – if anything I plan on extending it up the transom some for extra support in the middle.

Warthog – the infamous “NASA” hatch
That is why I picked that wide hatch for the vertical transom surface. It's about the widest one I have found and it hinges 180 degrees (all the way up out of the way) - I plan on moving my trim tab pump and some other goodies to the inside of the transom.

I wish I had the Kodiak model tank with the bottom feed and drain.. I would probably mount it in a permanent position behind my leaning post. I thought about using a PVC 90 degree elbow to direct the overflow down somehow and route back (another 90 degrees) to a to a large seacock drain?

I could keep it removable with only a pipe or hose to step over when the live well is in the boat and attach it to a hose barb or some sort of quick disconnect (as you suggested). I'm gonna have to cipher on this a little more.

Worst case I might just have to come up with a new plan (i.e. bait well) altogether

[Scott]

Jack

I'm going to slow down with the pics.

I'm sure they are getting boring (same old stuff)

Dude ....Pictures never get boring