Started 20' upgrade and restore

[Islandtrader]

I noticed in your picture of materials that your divynicel was all scrim and scored? Why this rather than solid sheets? (New at this so just gathering info.)

I like what you have done so far, and I will take some of your ideas and use them on my rebuild.

[gofastsandman]

NICE work BTK,
Your flying.
Are you familliar w/ Keep Alive brand aeration nozzles for livewells?

I`m still figuring out my recirc set up and heard they make REALLY tiny bubbles.
Thx,
GFS

[billythekid]

GFS I am familiar with the keep alive system. But for the live bait fishing we do in NJ it is more important to turn the water over meaning that in an hour for a 45 gallon live well with a 1600 gph pump and the live beeing 8 feet from the pump gives you 1100 gph which will turn the water over every 3 minutes. 90 percent of the time we are using adult bunker(menhaden or Pogies down south) And need volume. I am planning to install an oxygen system like I have in my Yellowfin for when the water gets warm. From my experience with livewells and the Bait that we use up north is the live has to be round or oval with zero obstructions in the tank it self, minimium current and preforated drainage. I have heard good things about Hammerhead livewells and not only are they extremely functional he has made it so it doesnt look like an eye sore in the cockpit. The lid locks forming a tight seal and is completely removable for a cast net to be completely dumped into it and not tear the net on the way out.

[gofastsandman]

Thx BTK,

I was up in Ma. in Oct. Your Herring are HUGE.

I`m doing a custom set up w/ a used poly oval 40 gal I got in Ft pierce at MLC/ I`m running the inlet from the front of the well port side just behind the gas tank to the clamshell 5" behind the tank. Total run <5 ft. 800 gph . No interior impediments except 2 strained drains and the end of day drain cut tight to the face. I hear you on flow. We use a lot of goggle eyes and blue runners. FLOW IS A MUST.

I smoke and am sometimes careless, so I`ll pass on the o2 infusion for now. Gotta quit. How can I pressurize my tank?

It has a rolled 90* curved flange that`s confusing me to no end.

I was really hoping to upgrade to a better inlet atomizer. Any thoughts?

GFS

[billythekid]

Got some stuff done this weekend and before calling it quits for a beer or two and the superbowl. I got some radius wax from my fiberglass guy that work really well for all the hatches in the mold. I laid it down against the mold heated up a 1/2 socket and hit the wax for a couple of seconds with a heat gun and it ran right around the mold.





tank mounted with some fiberglass shims and neoprene between the tank and the fiberglass.I wanted the tank to be mounted into the new plywood stringers for some strenght instead of just the thin original stringer.



I put the bench seat and console on the mold for layout purposes




I got the hoses ran and hooked up for the livewell and bilge pumps. All the hard plumbing was done on the livewell side also hooked the wires for the bilge pump and livewell and heat shrinked. I took a strip of fiberglass and ran it through the table saw for a wire runner .



I decided to use 3" drainage tubing for the rigging tubes since its 5 times lighter than scedule 40 pvc and it is extremely durable.



I took some other strips of leftover glass and used them as mounting plate for the rigging tubes. I drilled a couple beaded the screws with 4200 and set everything in place.



I decided to put a rigging tube on the port side to for the saltwater wash down hose, bilge pump wires, livewell wires, gas tank wire, I didnt want to short myself on space.



I am hoping to get the deck layed up this week I am just waiting for the floor flange for the livewell for the layout.

[Tashmoo2]

Billy,

Your pictures are helping me a lot. I like way you run wires and hoses. How do you change the bilge hoses that are secured to stringer if they have to be replaced. The plastic shouldn't degrade but what if water freezes in it and hose cracks?

Are you going to fill voids between stringers with foam?

Thx

Ed

[billythekid]

Hey Ed the hoses running towards the bow with the clamps on them are for the livewell. The can both be winterize with no problem the bilge hoses will be loose and accesible for changing,I am using the heavy duty hose for everything so it should last a very long time. The jury is still out on the foam thing. If anything I will rip a piece of PVC in half and put it between the stringer and the hull and pour what ever foam I have left in my 2 gallon kit in each side just to keep the coast guard happy.

[gofastsandman]

Hey BTK,
Cant believe how fast you`re moving, and the quality of the work.

Noticed you put a ball valve on the transom thru hull for the livewell drain. My livewell drain will be @ 18" above deck and I didn`t really feel the need to put in a ball valve as long as I carry a plug and a backup plug for it.
Thoughts?
Can I use recently {2 wks} opened 4200/5200 if it still flows? Kept in fridge.
Thx,
GFS

[Trayder]

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You had asked before if there was anything different i would of done on my 20 restore and after looking at your pictures there is one thing.....gone to you to have you do it..... nice clean work. Looks alot like the rigging on your other boat.

[billythekid]

trayder thanks do you have any projects up your sleeve? gfs 42 is good I find that if you put plastic over the tip and tape it on it will keep it good right up to the tip. I put a ball vavle on drain becuase I had it leftover from another project. also I like being able to isolate everything. I am laying the deck up on saturday with 2 freinds( slash proffesionals) the way its going to go is

3 coats of wax
2 coats of PVA
duratec
2 layers of matt
1 layer of cloth
devilet putty
dyvinecel
strips of plywood where stuff is getting mounted
devilet putty between everything
layer of mat
layer of cloth