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  #31  
Old 10-20-2014, 08:59 PM
Blackfin26 Blackfin26 is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Brewster, MA
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Sweet...Definitely second the hero work comment!
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  #32  
Old 10-21-2014, 09:18 AM
CoreyTrx CoreyTrx is offline
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Thanks guys. The cap needed a ton of work. Someone in the past had repaired a lot of holes but only filled them with resin. They didn't put any glass over the top of the repairs so all of them were showing thru the paint. The paint was a pain to get off. I don't know what it was but there was primer and paint and it seemed like it never really cured fully. It was really hard on top but underneath would gum up the paper. So I sanding the entire cap and patched every hole with at least 2 layers of mat. The big holes and rod holder holes got a couple layers of 1708. I also had to attached the back half of the cap where I cut it off to do the transom.
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  #33  
Old 10-21-2014, 09:24 AM
CoreyTrx CoreyTrx is offline
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Inside the bilge I removed all the old tabbing from the engine beds which just pried out. Then I ground down the whole bilge which sucked. I replaced the engine beds with some strings made of coosa and then center string with a couple layers of marine ply. All of then were covered with a few layers of 1708 and 1700. I also installed a pad for the livewell/washdown thru hull. I covered the transom and bilge with a couple coats of gel coat.
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  #34  
Old 10-21-2014, 09:56 AM
Old Goat Old Goat is offline
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Damn fine work Corey!

I applaud you!
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  #35  
Old 10-21-2014, 04:49 PM
oz775 oz775 is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: South Jersey
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I was gonna do the same to my bracketed tsunami...are you gonna keep the lip that protrudes on the deck in the cockpit where old engine box was? It seems to hold a lot of structural integrity...Boat looks awesome!!
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1974 Tsunami- 2004 Merc 225 Opti on bracket
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  #36  
Old 10-21-2014, 06:11 PM
CoreyTrx CoreyTrx is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2012
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I want to make the deck flat eventually. It does add a lot of rigidity to the deck in that area. For now I'm going to cut the engine box down to just above the lip. I have to decide how I'm going to support the floor on in that area once I cut the lip out. A couple guys have done it on here so I'll probably do something similar. I figure once I cut the box down it will give me more room back there. I like having all the access to the bilge and transom. So once I'm down in there I'll figure out a hatch. Probably next winter.
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  #37  
Old 10-21-2014, 08:56 PM
FLexpat FLexpat is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 669
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You need to teach a class in moldmaking and glasswork.
I need to take it.
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  #38  
Old 10-31-2014, 02:49 PM
CoreyTrx CoreyTrx is offline
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Flexpat thanks, that's actually my first try at a mold. I just followed what other had done on here. I would do a few things different next time. I put the mold for the bracket tub together with screws so I could take it apart easily and save the mold. Next time all I'll have to build it a mold for the platform.
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  #39  
Old 10-31-2014, 02:57 PM
CoreyTrx CoreyTrx is offline
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The gel coat is in really good shape on the hull just oxidized. I wet sanded the sides quick and hit it with compound just to see if it would come back. It looks pretty good. In the spring I will really wet sand and compound the hull. I got some new decals made and put on.
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  #40  
Old 10-31-2014, 03:05 PM
CoreyTrx CoreyTrx is offline
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I gel coated the whole cap including both dashes. I still need to wet sand and polish everywhere there will be no non skid. I will be shooting gel with grit for the non skid. This I'll do over the winter and spring. The fuel tank is the original that I sanded and coal tar epoxied. It was in really good shape.
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