#31
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search them online. They usually have a 2fer sample pack that is less than the normal price on 1 can.
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1975 SF18/ 2002 DF140 1972 15' MonArk/ 1972 Merc 50 http://i833.photobucket.com/albums/z...photos/SC3.jpg |
#32
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Quote:
If it was run in saltwater, I'd be a little concerned about corrosion, and the power trim may prove troublesome, as I don't remember those early units being particularly robust. I'd also wonder if it's due for some reed valves, as they tend to fatigue over time; replacement with the fiberglass Boysen reeds might be a good move, if they still make them for that motor. Fr. Frank knows those motors well and could tell you what to watch out for. Also don't know what the parts availability is for that motor; might be better off with a Black Max motor or a V-4 looper, either of which would probably burn less gas. I'm sure Big Shrimpin knows the V-6 Mercs well and could probably fix you up with one! I believe most motors of that vintage ran the control cables in one side and the wiring harness in the other side of the cowling, so it's a little harder to do a neat rigging job on them by running everything thru one rigging tube. If you're gonna pay some one to work on it, then having a good nearby dealer is probably more important than anything else!
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'72 SeaFari/150E-Tec/Hermco Bracket, owned since 1975. http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...Part2019-1.jpg |
#33
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Thanks Denny your help is very much appreciated as well as all the other members who joined in my tedious topic.Thanks to all of you.
I'm pretty mechanically inclined and have always done my own work on just about everything. However as I get older my desire to do bullwork is lessening,and I find myself not wanting to attempt to do do something I'm not familiar with. Of course I say that,but I just got a quote from a carpenter to do a little work on a tiny back porch on my home,and found his quote of 4,000 to be way over what it should be. I started thinking,"Hell,I could do that myself for 1500 bucks,and use the rest to put towards a newer outboard" Now I'm falling right back into that trap again of doing stuff I wanted to stop doing.I guess I'll never learn,so Forget all that stuff I just wrote. I started thinking that a 72 motor is too old to put a lot of faith in so I'm dropping that idea .I think I'll keep looking for something around 1995 to 2000. Any models to stay away from or models that are good,please let me know what you think.I don't know a whole lot about outboards when it comes to which is good or bad. I'd ask on the Hull truth,but I'm not a fan of that site,I find it to be full of know it all's and everything ends up in a shouting match and beat up of whatever product or manufacturer it is that's being discussed. BTW any idea of what the 150hp(about 1984-1986) on the back of this Seafari is worth for parts.??
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All this,just for a boat ride |
#34
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Hey John,
When you only have $600 in the whole boat, I can relate to how hard it is to wrap your mind around the idea of spending thousands of $ on a motor! I went thru the same thought process when I bought my new motor and bracket, spending about 3X what I had originally paid for the whole rig back in 1975! However, when I now look back at that decision 9 years later, I realize that I've taken almost 20 very memorable trips in it, many of which I would probably not have taken with the old motor. So if you figure that it's the memories of what you do with the boat that really count, then I've concluded that it was money well spent! The Johnrudes are the only motors I'm really familiar with, and I'd avoid any of them made in the late 90's when OMC was in it's death spiral, maybe 97-99. A colleague of mine was the Chief Engineer at their Stuart, Fl. test center during the transition from OMC to BRP, and he said OMC was buying off a lot of deviated parts from suppliers during that time. The designs were fine, and any bad motors may not have survived too long, but I'd be wary of a low time "unproven" motor of that vintage! However he was very impressed with the BRP organization and he said anything made by them (2000 and later) are very high quality motors. BRP continued making carb'd motors for a few years (as Johnson's), but focused new development work on the DI (Evinrude Ficht and E-TEC) motors. I'd look for a 2000 or later Johnson V-4, as they're much lighter, simpler and cheaper than 4-strokes but very reliable and easy to work on. The newer clean technology motors (both 2 & 4 strokes) run much leaner and are more susceptible to minor fuel starvation problems that can cause overheated/scored pistons, etc. A carb'd 2-stroke will probably tolerate minor fuel system blockages that can kill a newer high tech motor! I think I'd also avoid the early Merc Optimax motors, but Big Shrimpin, Doodlebug and/or Fr. Frank can all provide good advice on the Mercs.
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'72 SeaFari/150E-Tec/Hermco Bracket, owned since 1975. http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...Part2019-1.jpg |
#35
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Tower of Power
John, I think Gillie runs a Tower of Power Merc on his Seafari. He would have an idea about the performance. He's been thinking about a repower for some time though because he out running around in the Pacific where if something breaks you just might not end up on a nice sandy beach with coconut trees having Ginger and Mary-Ann fight'in over you!
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#36
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Oh Gilligan, be a good lad and bring us some more coconuts. John, the 60 degree omc/brp 150/175 is a great choice at 365 lbs. These eagle series motahs are very simple, strong, and thirsty. The carbs do not have lo speed jets to clog, just air bleed jets which run off the main jets. They were made to handle crap gas around the world. The fuel systems are almost all plastic and rubber so e 10 is to be avoided no matter who says what. Ah, The Spurious Truth. Where 95 % of what I read is 5% accurate. Amen on that. The whacker of bushes is correct as usual. Avoid 97-99. They also had some early casting issues from 92-93. The design was beefed up in 94. If the early motahs have any hours on them you are probably fine. Most grenaded long ago if they were suspect. So from 92- 96 john rudes or 2000 - 2005 brp Johnson carb motahs are a good choice. Part out a motah for 2-3 k if you really sell everything. You should see the stupid prices for ficht bomb parts. Also the carb motahs have great parts availability and the prices are good for boat parts. They made a ton of these ocean pro/ocean runnners. Cheers, GFS |
#37
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nice lookin boat for the money. same as mine. I have a 150 merc motor if you need one. its an older straight 6 and less than 300 lbs. the lightest 6 ever made. my boat is powered by a 115 mariner . goes plenty fast enough for me.
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#38
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Bigeasy,
I would 2nd the BRP Engines and weight ratio. I just picked up a 20' Sceptre in California Last week. Already pulled and sold the Engine. I am currently shopping for a 150 or 175.... 88,89,90 or 94 thru 98 and 2002 to 2005 Johnson DI. The 98 and earlier are carb motors. Dam near bullet proof and super easy to fix when something goes wrong on the water. Parts motors are easy to come by. Most people do not realize but once Bombardier took over OMC they cleaned up the act Fast. I have seen the 2002 to 2005 Johnson DI engines with 2000 to 3000 hours and still running strong. Probably the Best buy for the Money. Now if you want to go the Carbed Route... I would highly suggest looking for a Whole Boat. You can buy the Whole boat Cheaper than the Engine Only go figure. Once you pull the motor and controls... then just Pop the boat back up for sale on the trailer with no power. It should sell fast. Makes for a Nice Engine Stand during the swap. I know Bigshrimp will chime in here on the Mercs as some point better fuel economy but i cant work on them so i have to stay on the Johnnyrude stuff. Gillie is running a 115 merc Tower of Power in the Pacific he is on the same side of the country as me. I think he said he was getting around 34 mph with that set up. Either way you go... Nice Score on the Seafari. Robert |
#39
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Wow what a find, as u said 600.00 was a steal. Love the yellow color too
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