#31
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Thats a lot of work...looking good and your on the home stretch!
strick
__________________
"I always wanted to piss in the Rhine" (General George Patton upon entering Germany) |
#32
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After grinding out, filling, and fairing some spider cracks in the hull. I shot the first couple of coats of primer and added some more coats on the inside. The primer showed a few more blemishes that I'm going to work on... I don't think you can ever sand and fair enough, but its looking better and better after each step. I found a fantastic painting "how to" on youtube where Frankie gives a really simple, straightforward process to using awl grip products. I've been using his methods and I'm very pleased so far. If anyone is looking at the daunting (and expensive) task of spraying awl grip, I highly recommend you take a look at his stuff! A very exciting step is coming up. My dad is bringing down some stainless rub-rails he shaped and had welded in Maryland and we will be fitting them to the boat in the next few weeks!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wm9eOy_xJuE |
#33
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This past weekend we dry fit the rub rail and filled behind the rail to make a nice curved edge to the boat. Lots of tedious work but it came out great in the end. We got the boat off the trailer as well and will be prepping the bottom for gel coat and moving into the final sanding and painting. The finish line is in sight!
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#34
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Advice needed!
We are putting down AwlGrip Grip Tex for the Non-Skid. Mixed with Cloud White. I have seen mixed reviews on using the flattening agent, some people say its harder to clean, and the griptex cuts the glare down enough on the deck. What have you guys used. Any ideas? |
#35
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I have been using awlgrip for a long time. Gloss does stay cleaner and is more durable.
The flattening agent is a pain in the ass. It has no shelf life, needs to be agitated pretty frequently while spraying, and will wind up glossy,or patchy looking, if temps are too warm or you use the wrong reducer. Gloss looks awesome with a 50/50 mix of coarse and fine. Looks best if you spray the sand with a primer gun, and let it dry up good before the sealer coat |
#36
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Thank you! I think we will keep it simple and not use the flattening agent. That was another question I had, a sealer coat after the nonskid or not. I suppose the grip tex acts a mechanical grip for the sealer coat since you can't sand it. Is there a time frame that you have to have it down by?
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#37
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To be clear this is the plan for the non skid, please critique and offer insight if you have it!
1. Final 545 Primer on the Whole Deck 2. Sand 220,320, ultra fine scotch brite and water. 3. Denatured Alcohol Wipe. 4. Finish topcoat on the no non skid areas and the borders around the non skid 5. Let cure 24 hours ish 6. Tape off border for non skid, cover all no-nonskid parts. 7. Mix Topcoat and Griptex fine and coarse mix in spray cup. 2.0 nozzle. 8. Coat non-skid areas until covered. 8. Finish "sealer" coat with topcoat. 9. Pull tape and walk away. What are we doing wrong?!?! |
#38
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Quote:
Every other step you described sounds correct. Just make sure you use slower reducer and temps arent too high, the griptex wont adhere if the paint flashes off before you get it on there. Easy to do if you have a second person following you as you go with the other gun |
#39
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Sprayed High Build Primer on the hull today. I was going back and forth on wether to use only 545 regular primer or high-build and ended up doing the high build. It already has taken some of the blemishes out. After a good sand and a few coats of 545 I think we will have it looking really good and ready for topcoat.
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#40
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Well, It's finally finished. It was a great first project. I learned a lot, sweated a lot, and contemplated burning it down a few times, but in the end she turned out exactly as I pictured in my mind. I was having a few issues with the second hand HPDI we put on it, but after a few days in the shop with a good mechanic, a full fuel system cleaning, and an oil pump replacement, she runs like a champ. I cruise at 35 KTS and top out at 45 kts. The boat is solid and cuts through the water like butter. You cant help but smile when you open it up and see what it can do. If anyone is getting demoralized in their rebuild. I PROMISE you, its worth it. Here are some pictures of the finished product. I will post more as I take them!
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