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#31
01-25-2022, 12:38 AM
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#32
01-25-2022, 05:12 AM
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I’d be concerned about that torque curve. It’s more a tow truck engine than a dragster. But I’d be interested to see the results regardless fishstretcher. That L92 6.2 LS is a beast and has an aluminum block. The ability to get bbc numbers out of a small block is amazing today. Also, Volvo is now using LS blocks.
One other thing to consider on that bracket. I always thought my transom was rotted due to poor fiberglass 1 layer of 6oz cloth with holes is not the best plan.    But I couldn’t figure out why there were so many drain plugs on the boat. There had to be nearly 10 onboard. 1 in each drain area on deck and then several in storage boxes and the one on the stern had a wire keeping it there when not in. A couple of months ago it hit me that my boat was so stern heavy, he had to put drain plugs in deck drains to keep water out. They likely seeped along with the transom and the water got down in bilge and caused my rot issues (or at least helped it along). Food for thought on your project.
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#33
01-25-2022, 11:29 PM
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WOW that brackets looks to be made from 2x lumber and fasteners.
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#34
01-25-2022, 11:32 PM
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#35
02-07-2022, 03:00 PM
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So after much thought and research, I have decided to keep the cabin and keep it pretty close to original. However, I am going to be adding the shortest flotation bracket possible and a 300hp 4-Stroke Outboard. I have experience with Gelcoat and much more prefer it so that is the route that I will also be taking here throughout with a complete refit.
The bulkheads will need replacement but the deck and stringer system look to be solid as a rock. I will be installing a fuel tank below the cabin deck to shift the CoG forward as much as possible. The bulkhead (fore & aft of fuel tank compartment) replacements might actually give me the access I need to install the fuel tank and building myself out of that area (we shall see though). Not sure how I would install and strap a large 100 gallon tank without deck access. There will be a lot of unusable space below deck from going to an outboard and a lot of above deck space gained in the process so I would like to plan some in deck boxes/hatches for storage and maybe a livewell. However, careful placement of live vs. dead loads (coolers, seating, fuel, livewell etc.) is going to be my focus. I have thought about a ballast system but not quite sure how the installation of that would go. With the majority of boating/fishing being out of the west coast of Florida, an Aquasport will be more readily used and my next finished project. However, when the kids get a little older and grow some sea legs, we will take it down to the keys for some week long stays in the spring/early summer and ill be able to run out offshore and catch some big ones.  Maybe even take it to the Bahamas following my brother in his 32 Stamas Express... and show him whos boss....LOL!
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#36
02-09-2022, 11:29 AM
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Glad to see you keeping the cabin. I loved mine.
When redoing bulkheads, make sure you address a weak spot in the 25s design, not enough bulkheads forward of the forward tank bulkhead. It needs at least one and maybe 2 and should tie both main stringers and the inner liner together, so they can support each other. Blue Heron figured this out why this is true and will have a wealth of knowledge on how to fix it. There is so much room under the cap that you can do all of this without pulling the cap (personal experience).
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#37
02-09-2022, 02:32 PM
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I have read about this and have talked to X on here about it. There is just over 7ft between the bulkhead in the center and forward.  Immediately I found it odd how the center stringers were lower down in the hull with very little if at all attachment to the structure. I do see a fuel tank platform and the loose filled foam under the cabin area but don't feel those were structural components as designed. All items poorly placed due to a lack of drainage causing rot as most already know. I don't even think there was glass laid up on the plywood in the center of the bulkhead (maybe just coated in resin?) Some photos of the rear (engine compartment) and midship bulkheads (obviously shot).
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#38
02-09-2022, 05:25 PM
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Much better plan brother. Get after the basic stuff then work on the other stuff between times. Get that oscillating saw going and save bulkheads as can for templates.
Bulkhead's look about like mine did. And what Connor said. Plenty of room to work under there but gonna be sore, cuts, bruises, itchy is just part of it. Herons pics are gone but he made a small bulkhead and a platform with a bilge pump using pink foam and epoxy. I miss his pics that was a wealth of knowledge. I’ll give you 2 of my big regrets Better Drain tubes under deck Rigging pvc tubes under deck As we discussed raise the center stringer and Add small bulkheads between stringers for a platform for the fuel tanks. Id suggest only do 1 bulkhead at a time they are toast but they do add rigidity and you don’t want it twisting on you. Good luck templating. Cardboard worked best for me. Cardboard to 5mm board sanded and shaped. Then cut out coosa. And glassed in.
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#39
02-09-2022, 09:49 PM
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It’s funny you mentioned the drains and rigging tube because I have a plan to drain the low cockpit areas with under deck drain pipes either back to the bilge or directly to thru hull. There doesn’t seem to have ever been a pathway other than through the cheap thin bulkhead at the transom so going below deck and below the cabin will be likely. Seems like just forward of the helm is a good spot for batteries. Don’t know about them all to one side. I was planning to lay a piece of Coosa directly on the center stringer and tab it to the sides (do you see any issues with that?) of the stringers so I gain some depth, structure, and give me a platform off the hull bottom to rest tanks.
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#40
02-10-2022, 04:36 PM
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I miss blue-heron’s pics. Those were a wealth of knowledge.
I made some semi circles out of pvc for drainage on the bulkheads. Strick and others have some good ideas on that. I’ve seen others glass work here that just amazes me. I’ve had to learn the hard way. My rigging tube is a fairly large piece of gray electrical pvc conduit run under the gunwale. I put one of the biggest I could in there. 2.5”? Got that one from DonV I think. I wouldn’t try to go out sides with drainage unless on bilge pumps. It’s below the water line and uphill with not a lot of room. I’m trying to put bilge pumps fore and aft. 1 fore and 2 aft on manual and auto float switches. I’ll probably add a little landing pad in there like blue heron did to collect water and mount the bilge pump fore. What you’re suggesting is how I raised my center stringer to be even with the other 2 to give me a landing surface for fuel tanks. Add some mini bulkheads in there. Leave space for drainage though down the middle. I tried to wrap my center stringer in 1 continuous piece of glass like an upside down u. In retrospect I should’ve taken my router and done a 1/2” round over on the top of it. I did round it over (1/4”?) but not nearly enough. I ended up wrapping it with 2 pieces like an L with about 3” of overlap and did 3 layers over my coosa.
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