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#41
11-09-2012, 07:05 PM
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"Capt Chuck Any chance you know the manufacturer or distributor/store for the SS version you mentioned. After a quick internet search, I only found the plated Perko versions and plastic version by TH marine which can't be disassembled and cleaned."
https://www.bosunsupplies.com/ProductDeckHdwr.cfm 
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#42
11-11-2012, 07:37 PM
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Guys I really need some help,regarding my previous posts.
1. Old deck sat on 3/4 inch potter putty back aft but sat on stringers up front. Raised stringers 2 1/4 inches with plywood. This only raised the back deck about 11/2 inches when finished. Do all 20s decks sit flush on stringers up front but above stringers aft? Should I shim back aft to raise it a true 2 1/4 inch? 2. I have searched all forums regarding filling scuppers permanently to bring them out the stern but I can't find a good step by step description. Do I just fill with epoxy? Do I put glass on the bottom of the hull and epoxy? Etc... Thanks for any help. I'm at a stand still until I can get these two figured out.
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#43
11-11-2012, 11:20 PM
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Here is the way I filled my scupper holes. Dish out both the inside and the outside, I forget the recommended angle ratio but if your using epoxy you can put multiple layers on the inside to make sure the patch holds anyway, insurance. The most important thing is to get to original glass for a reliable bond and to do this far enough out from the hole as well. So you have your dish on the outside and inside. Epoxy resin one layer of cloth on the outside of the hull first and let that cure. Since you are working upside down, just check it to make sure no bubbles form and the patch does not pull. I had no problem there. Then you can work from the inside, use cabosile/silica to fill in the hole on the inside to the lip of your dish/bevel, only filling the the original hole. Then put multiple layers on the inside of the hull filling in the bevel. I like to start with small patches and work out with larger and larger cloth circles. The lighter the cloth the stronger the repair will be considering the same thickness of layup. I used quite a bit of layup on the inside of the hull and my largest patch is about a foot square. Overkill maybe, but why not. You can then fill and fair the outside of the hull, you will have a nice dish to fill, cloth again is better than fairing filler.
Last edited by Normagain; 11-11-2012 at 11:24 PM.
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#44
11-12-2012, 01:59 AM
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As to question # 1 I don't know if all 20's decks sit above the stringers aft but I have found that on some of the boats that I have tore into the deck does not sit flush on the stringers but rests on an inch or so of potter putty. I assume that when building the molds for the deck they made them short on purpose so there is a margin of error when bonding the deck to hull. I would put it back together in a way that is easiest for you to do and looks good as well.
For question # 2 I recently filled my scupper drains on the 20 sceptre I am restoring and although I did not show exactly how I did it I will tell you in detail. On the underside of the boat I removed the little wedges that create a vacuum for the scuppers and threw them in the garbage. I then took my grinder and ground down 3/16" deep or so thru the gel coat and well into the glass a circle about 5 inches diameter. I then cut 3 circular pieces of 1708 each a little bigger then the last one and the last one about 4 inches in diameter. I mixed some resin and thickened it slightly with cabosil...not too thick so I could still apply the resin with a roller. By adding cabosil to the resin it makes it more sticky so the glass adheres better for up side down glassing. I then glassed in place the three pieces of 1708 putting down the smallest piece first so that the second and third piece over lapped the one preceding it by about an inch. Let that cure and then sand and quick fair over it...prime and paint. On the inside of the boat I took a wire brush that fits on a drill and reamed/cleaned out the hole because there was lots of sealant still in the hole from the original brass drains. I then took a drill fitted with a heavy duty wire brush and ground through the gel coat the entire dish or bowel what ever you want to call it so it was into the bare glass about 1/8" Clean everything with acetone especially deep into the hole. I then took some 1.5 oz matt and chopped it into small bits and mixed it with resin. Using cabosil alone is not advised as it will crack unless there is some kind of webbing to give it strength. Next I applied the matt/resin mixture into the hole and well up into the bowel of the scupper drain. The next day after everything hardened I sanded the rough stuff smooth and glassed in several layers of 1.5 oz matt so the last piece of matt is flush with the deck gutters. Quick fair over that sand and then prime and paint. strick
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#45
11-12-2012, 09:07 AM
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Norm and strick, that is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you so much for taking the time to read, understand and answer my questions. THANK YOU!!!
Elijah
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#46
11-12-2012, 09:27 AM
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i have some leakage in my 20fter and suspect its from the deck scuppers. i'm thinking of doing the same thing. that was good advice. i may give it a try.
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#47
11-12-2012, 09:07 PM
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After receiving some good advice I ground down around the scuppers on the hull and tomorrow will prep the inside of the tube. I think I should be alright just roughing it up pretty good since it has previously been filled with epoxy and re drilled. Does that sound right to you guys? Then prep the topside of the scupper.
 
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#48
11-12-2012, 09:30 PM
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are you gonna plug that and glass over it, chance?
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#49
11-12-2012, 10:44 PM
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Yes I am, just as strick advised above. I'm piecing this thing together over the winter I don't even have any fiberglass supplies yet. But hopefully soon ill have sometime.
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