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#41
05-06-2018, 10:33 PM
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Thanks for the information. I’m calling Tom tomorrow at Bennett to find the shortest actuator. I spend a lot of time in the water with my kids and can’t wait to have a big bracket for diving and spear fishing. Depending on what I find, I may have to work with Armstrong and get the bracket noched for clearance. I don’t want to cut the bracket myself and compromise the powder coat. I’ll keep the long actuator running through the bracket as plan b.
The coosa bonded in great. There are no hollow sounding spots and had good squeeze out. Later I will have a lot of holes to fill. Next up is the under deck plumbing and wire installation. 
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#45
05-15-2018, 11:19 PM
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On my 23WA, I had to cut holes for my Lenco rams thru my Armstrong bracket. Not a big deal, just eye balling the location was a bit tricky.
Armstrong would not cut the holes...can't blame them, but they sent touch up paint. I'm home this week if you want to see how I dealt with mine. Lloyd
__________________
1973 Seacraft 20' SF "Sea Dog" 1988 Tracker/Seacraft 23' WA "Salty Dog"
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#46
06-14-2018, 09:03 PM
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I'm getting close to installing tanks and plumbing then dropping the deck in. Now I'm second guessing myself on the deck height. This will be my last chance to add height. Its being raised 1.5" already. Is that enough?
My plan is a 28" Armstrong bracket an a 300 Suzuki (600 lbs). Will I have wet feet?
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#47
06-14-2018, 09:56 PM
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Going with the 25" or 30" shaft on the Zuke? I'll let you know after we get back from the Keys how the 1" raise in my brother's floor worked out with his 25" shaft G2 on his 27" bracket. As of right now the drain holes are well above the water....with a light load. More to come..
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#49
06-28-2018, 04:22 PM
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Plastic tanks are a no-go for other reasons as well I've found out over the years. My 23 will have an aluminum tank meticulously installed and protected. Best of luck with your rebuild. May it be the second love of your life.
Plastic will (poly) absorb all kinds of moisture, alcohol, solvents etc. and will eventually structurally fail because of the force of 100 gallons of fuel crashing around the cell over the years. They will crack, and plastic opens up big-time without warning. They don't leak like aluminum or steel tanks - they bust open.
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#50
10-28-2018, 10:01 PM
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I’m back at it. The temperature has dropped and I have a goal to get to paint in January. I have the bilges gelcoated along with the insulated fish boxes. All the transom holes and voids have been filled. The vent holes in the gunnels have been filled. I’m starting to install the fuel tanks. I have the lines run. Was really tight running two sets of hoses but I managed. Just need to get the fuel restraint brackets bolted in. Next up will be to add lights to the fish boxes.
I messed the deck up a little by not using enough resin in the first layer . I left small air bubbles under the duratec. They are the size of a BB or smaller. Found them when pressure washing. I’m planning on pulling the deck out and hitting it good with the pressure washer to expose the voids then fill them with fairing compound and sanding. Hope it works. I don’t want any opening up after finish painting. I also need to find time to work on the deck hatches and receiver lips. I cleaned up and pulled her out of her tent into the sun for the first time in a year. Took her to a local shop to talk about having some fairing and painting done. I put the front edge of the center console 10” in front of the fuel chases. The leaning post has a 16” gap. Should move the CG forward some and opens up the transom for fishing and diving fun. Looks good. I’m looking for a bracket. Armstrong is pricey at $3700, A & J quoted $2900. Still looking. I’m most concerned about the finish or powder coating coming off. Does anyone have suggestions. Looking for a 30” setback 12 deg, 80” platform with a floatation chamber.
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