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#41
10-29-2018, 12:50 PM
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"boat yoga" is the term youre looking for
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#42
10-29-2018, 01:30 PM
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#43
10-29-2018, 02:58 PM
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 Plan is 2" wide 2lb density poly foam boards cut glued together then glassed in, same process for the bulkheads. I hate how little storage my 20' has and would rather spend the $ and redo the stringers to get that additional storage below deck.
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#46
10-30-2018, 04:40 PM
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 The bow sat pretty low on the trailer previously (it still sits lower than I'd like) and held water up front. When I first bought it, it was sitting on a slight incline on a driveway, enough to make the bow even lower. I had to use a jack and several blocks to get the trailer jacked high enough to get all the water out before I trailered it home. It drained for at least 10 minutes, full 3/4" stream out of the plug hole. I'm sure the keel up front had enough water in it to be up to those stringers, and I'm sure when I tilted the boat up some water flowed down the stringers vs down the bilge and became trapped. Who knows how many times this happened over the course of the lifetime of the boat. Quote:
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#47
11-12-2018, 12:44 PM
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Wife had two weekends of weddings Fri/Sat/Sun (wedding photographer) so boat time was limited, but managed to get a little work done here and there.
Got the Starboard stringer cut open and defoamed:  Once again, stringer was full of water under the foam:    All foam removed:  Knowing I'd need a way to dispense glass easily, I decided to throw together a contraption out of my scrap wood pile (and some 3/4" conduit):     Fits nicely in the corner of the garage and still provides plenty of access to the beer fridge:  And since I'm a weakling and can't curl 120+ lbs the old trusty HF low profile made an appearance again to load the roll of 1708:  I wanted it tall enough so it can hold 3 rolls, and I can put it near the transom and easily access stuff on the top shelf from in the boat. Problem is after I got it together I looked at it and thought "damn that looks tippy". Boxes on top are full of wood flour and cabosil (maybe 10 lbs total), and boxes on the bottom are full of 6 gallons of epoxy each. Until I put a huge dent in the epoxy it should be fine, I tested dispensing from each roll (including yanking on them) and no "tippyness" at all. I'll will probably have to revisit this as the epoxy on the bottom gets used up. Maybe some swiveling outriggers under the bottom shelf. Continuing in another post so I don't hit image limit...
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#48
11-12-2018, 12:44 PM
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This past Saturday I sneaked in some time triming the lips that were left over from cutting out the stringers. Still needs to be ground down and formed. I plan on running at least 12" strip of 1708 along the length of the chines before running new stringers to beef that area back up cover and grinding nicks and cuts.
Before: After (I tell you, these workers are always sitting down on the job):  Sunday I put in a few hours while the kids played outside and got the splashwell cut out. Needed to get this out so I can get access to the remainder of the stringers and be able to get the new stringer within a foot or so of the transom (will tie it into the transom once I replace it). Cutting the soles out adjacent to the splashwell to get access to the potter putty holding the splashwell to the top of the stringer. Starboard side was soaked and delaminated, popped right off, port side was basically brand new wood:   After marking and cutting the splashwell, I once again relied on the HF low profile to apply the needed leverage to make it pop (at 75lbs I'm getting tired of moving this thing into the boat, I'm really starting to get upset at 8 years ago me for not splurging for the aluminum one):  I knew there was some repairs done in the past to the splashwell area due to some core delamination in that area (and since the coring in that area was composite). Finally got a good look at that area with the well out. Looks like someone cut the bottom of the splashwell out, which corroborates a theory I have that someone recored PART this transom at some point and cut out this area to gain access. Whoever did it also added knees to the tops of the battery box "stringers" to support the new spashwell and tied them into transom. Fortunately for me the glass work for was REALLY sloppy and easily came apart:  The knees were glassed to the underside of the splashwell with a single layer of extremely resin starved CSM:  You can see the owriginal splashwell glass which the new core(s) was nested on top of:   And where they tied it into the existing splashwell:  Can also see the replaced coring (and the original lip) under the cut out splashwell:  I'll know for sure about the transom when I cut it open (after I get stringers back in the boat), but I'm pretty sure that the portion of the transom inside the yellow lines below was replaced at some point. I don't think the transom outside of those lines was replaced because wet wood is visible in the trim tab mounting/hydraulic holes:  Here's how she sits as of now (looking at this I just realized I still need to take that last coaming pad off):  Lots of grinding in the near future. Thanks for looking!
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#49
11-12-2018, 03:45 PM
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Naw you need to keep the coming pad there, your help needs a soft place to rest their heads!!!
 Looking good making nice progress!I hope you and your neighbor are good friends, don't want to upset him.
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#50
11-12-2018, 04:17 PM
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Linear Mode
