#41
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Another example of scope creep or just evolution as you wade through the process. I had considered permanently attaching gunnel caps early on but pushed it aside. After grinding, re-coring, glassing, making brackets, scribing, etc., I realized it might have been easier to fabricate new. After looking at the caulk joint with whatever distortion I had created, I was encouraged to grind out a bevel and glass them in. A few more days of work but happy with the decision. I am struggling to get a painter signed on so what’s a little more fairing. Wish I had gotten the 15 gallon epoxy kit when I started but at that point it was just a new transom.
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#42
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Quote:
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#43
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Awesome work! How many sheets total of the 1/2" H80 did it take to core the sides?
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#44
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Thanks. The scored H80 came in 32" x 48" sheets from my supplier. I don't know where you are but it's nice since you can fold it to ship. I think I used 5-6 sheets but didn't go all the way to the bow because I decided to keep part of the liner in place. Hull is about 24" from chine to cap at the transom so I stepped it up a little as I moved forward. Wish I had taken it all the way to the bow but was a little worried about taking the last section off.
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#45
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In hind sight do you think you could have gone with 3/8" or 1/4'' h80? I've been lurking for years and seen people core the sides with balsa, divinycell, nidacore, 1708, etc. The only thing I haven't seen is CoreMat would like to see someone try it! You should be plenty stiff without having gone to the bow. Especially since the liner is going back in. Is that a wish because of something tangible? Or is it a just because? I'm a perfectionist so I constantly find myself blowing past the point of diminishing returns : ) Can't wait to see her in the water!
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#46
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I think I was on here for almost 8 years before posting anything. There are guys more qualified to answer but I suspect you could downsize the core. I think BTK was the first one I read and decided I wanted to do it. I find myself rapping the hull when I walk by in the morning and look forward to hearing the difference in some chop. To answer your other question, IÂ’m a perfectionist and but still a rookie, which doesnÂ’t work well. I also find myself seeing a detail that I want to adopt and it leads to more work than I might need. Would have liked to beef up the stem with a bunch of glass but... I also decided to go with a decent plastic access hatch behind the lean post. Now IÂ’m second guessing that. Need this thing back in the water. Assume you have a project in mind. Hope to see something coming from Keith as well on the 18. Hope you guys enjoy your Memorial Day weekend.
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#47
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I have several in mind : ) I've settled on a natural progression from small to large. Just working and being patient till the time is right. Every now and then I think it'd be better to do two at a time! One to learn on and one to get it right (or at least exactly the way you want it)... but I'm sick like that lol. There is no such thing as the perfect boat needs/abilities/situations always seem to change. The reality is you have to decide if your going to be more builder, or more boater. There is nothing wrong with either. I wish all the people that told me when I was younger that I could do anything would've said right after that I can't do everything! Thanks for responding! Hope you have a great weekend as well!
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#48
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Quote:
strick
__________________
"I always wanted to piss in the Rhine" (General George Patton upon entering Germany) |
#49
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I know it’s progress but I had a hard time taking a blade to this. Needed a beer. Trying to roll on some 545 primer and keep fine tuning so I can get it sprayed in the beginning of July.
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#50
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I know I have asked about bilge/locker paint and plan to go with SW Tile Clad HS. The underside of the gunnels have not been faired and I don’t think anyone will stick their head under to look. Should I try the roll something thicker than primer or just leave it alone. Don’t want to make more of a mess by trying to make it perfect. Any thoughts?
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