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#41
09-07-2021, 05:04 PM
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Volvo Penta used the crank mounted pumps on the SBCs for years. Marine Power as well. I have had them and was pretty happy even though it took me a bit to trust it. The way they use a rubber bushing around the arm bolt takes up a lot of flex/vibration. You can change the impeller pretty easily and if you have it set up with shutoff valves, you can do that in the water. My only concern would be getting enough cooling since it looks like you will end up with a pretty high performance motor.
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#42
09-08-2021, 01:01 AM
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Brother you just hit my greatest concern. I have no idea if this will be adequate cooling.
I bought a 350,000 BTU heat exchanger and you can see my diagram below. I figure I’ll spend a small fortune in fittings and hoses but throughput is gonna be the name of the game. Assuming this cools adequately keeping it flowing is next priority. It does have a shut off valve on 1.25” water inlet to strainer, to pump, to various fittings. I’m running the biggest hoses I can think of and utilizing both sides of elbows in/out to promote quick circulation. I have a friend that runs the biggest cooling, refrigeration hvac (grocery stores etc freezers and a/c) for the island/state. He did some math and recommended this setup. But between us, I have no clue of this will work. Only one way to find out I suppose.
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#43
09-11-2021, 08:53 AM
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Do you have more specs than just 350,000 BTU/h? At what temperatures, flows, etc?
I have done these sorts of calculations for piston aircraft engines- I *might* be able to help. Quote:
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#44
09-11-2021, 02:34 PM
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40 GPM 4-1” ports on exchanger. Rated at 350,000 BTU. Using 1.25” hoses to feed water into and out of exchanger. See post 30 for thorough diagrams of system.
About all I know on it. 5.3 engine. 400-450hp output is my guess expect to spend most of my time 1500 rpm for trolling. Any help greatly appreciated. I’m trusting other people on this one.
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#45
09-13-2021, 08:15 PM
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I can only offer you a modest amount of guidance based on experience with other engines.
I did a fair amount of cooling work on Rotax 912 IS sport 100hp 4 cylinder aircraft engines. These were liquid cooled heads, but air cooled cylinders. And an oil cooler. Crucially, they can operate for a long time at or near full power, like a marine engine. For a 100HP engine (metric HP, but close enough for what we are discussing here) they were rated at 73.5kW for 5 minutes or 72kW continuous Go to flyrotax.com and look for the installation manual for details: d06847.pdf They required 30kW of liquid cooling, 6kW of air cooling and 10kW of oil cooling for takeoff. Takeoff is the worst condition, especially for oil cooling because of this highest engine speed. In my experience, this air cooling was largely unneccesary except at above 80% power. So, if we think the GM 5.3 is more efficient than a Rotax 912 iS Sport, and it probably is, then an estimate would be 30kW of water cooling 6kW of air cooling and 10kW of oil cooling for every 100HP at the crank. So for the estimate: for every 100 metric HP you make 73.5kW shaft power and need 46kW of cooling. Again, the 5.3 may make less heat, it's a modern engine. You say you cam make 400HP. That's at WOT, at maximum engine speed. Power requirements are very approximately related to the cube of speed. So at 80% speed, you will need very approximately 51.2% power. (and heat rejection). Or 200HP. So at 80% speed at 200HP, you need 2x(30+6+10)kW cooling. Call that 92kW heat rejection. You have 350,000BTU/h heat rejection. My online calculator and a couple of references make me think this is 102.5kW. So. For a first guess- I think you might overheat running at full throttle at full engine speed. But you are probably fine for almost all operation. This is just a guess- a slightly scientific guess with a reference, but just a guess. You could be OK at all speeds. I don't think this is a terrible place to start for cooling. But it doesn't seem overcooled. Remember, this is just an opinion that you got on the internet, using a different engine as a benchmark.
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#46
09-13-2021, 08:47 PM
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EDIT: a plate to plate will not work. Much, much more cooling required. Do NOT attempt
It has occurred to me that I made an error in telling you it will only be 350k btu’s. That’s the main heat exchanger however there will be additional 50k (25k for power steering and oil each). So I’ll try to figure out what that looks like. Heat soak is also a concern. I plan to have a bilge vent blower on the bilge exhaust side keyed to ignition so it pulls hot air out of the compartment and should draw cooler air in naturally. This blower is not to be confused with another blower I will install for venting gas fumes. Thanks for doing all this math. There really is only one way to find out for sure. It will have a ps cooler and an oil cooler. If needed a bigger exchanger is not the end of the world. But we will see. I’ll get up on plane and get going fast on rare occasions but majority is high speed trolling. 13mph. Give or take conditions.
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#47
09-30-2021, 02:54 PM
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So it’s been a lot of hurry up and wait here. Not sure I posted this but all 3 of my kids tested positive for COVID. And per Hawaii law, all of us (me, wife, and kids) were quarantined for over 20 days.
Wiring- I did end up getting a LS1 stand-alone harness. I couldn’t find a gen 4 stand-alone. Turns out the 2008 was an oddball Ls due to connectors etc. https://www.ebay.com/itm/313583141284 I did have to cut off and replace the ev1 to ev6 injector connectors. From old harness. This was free for me. I’ve read mixed reviews on adapters and this way it’s permanent. The map sensor I had looks compatible but if you do this double check that I did have to order some older style O2 sensors denso 234-4337 The coil brackets, coil harnesses, and coil harness extenders have finally come in this week. Took about 3 weeks to get those. And the flexible oil dipstick says oct-nov to arrive. My harness came with compatible parts id’s. I ordered a maf sensor. Will probably need an ait sensor as well. My pcm came in from lt1swap.com Brendon was great and super fast to work with. very close to being ready to start this. Must have a ligenfelter trg-002. The Holley terminator x’s are still not in stock. Need a 4pin to 2 pin alternator connector. I’ve thought about wiring it up myself but still reviewing harness diagrams. I do have a resistor here and maybe I can make that setup work. We’ll see. The ict billet 4pin to 2 pin waalt30-6 is only $30. Will be ordering gauges soon. Think I’ll be going with Faria Chesapeake in black. https://www.boatid.com/faria-beede-i...iABEgJ8SPD_BwE And need fuel system. Mainly a pump. Anyone have suggestions for inline fuel pumps? I’m thinking about an inline pump from summit and keeping an evil energy from Amazon onboard as a backup. It’d be pretty pricey to put in tank pumps in and really a pain if they failed.
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#48
09-30-2021, 07:56 PM
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Glad to here your out of quarantine and since you didn’t add anything I assume everyone is doing well!? God help anyone else that might try and work on it down the road😀but sure sounds like you’ve got it figured out! Hope the Lava isn’t a issue . My step daughter in Capt. Cook is ok
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#49
09-30-2021, 08:44 PM
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I’m never parting with this boat. I hope I’m happy with performance. Family is all aok. The lava is all in the volcano park a good bit away. A few years back it was flowing and within 10 miles of me.
I live in HPP. You step daughter should know where that is diagonally NE from her to me roughly. Rainy season is starting here I got to get a cover up ASAP.
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#50
10-05-2021, 04:27 AM
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I put another order in with summit
This ones for the fuel pump, ligenfelter converter trg-002, 4 pin to 2 pin alt harness, and msd custom plug wire kit. That’s gonna get me really close to firing it up. I need to order some gauges, fuel hoses, regulator, and some other stuff but nothing too major left on the engine. I can’t wait to fire it up, or at least try to. I’m sure I’ll have some issues to work out.
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