1978 MA rebuild.

[lelandtampa]

Foam outside stringers was a nice mix of wet and dry. Found this one crack in the starboard stinger where the rigging channel meets up by the fuel coffin. Otherwise demo is coming along quick and painless

[lelandtampa]

Not so quick question. What is the best way of determining the new deck level along the sides of the boat? Port stringer is 3/8" to 1/2" lower in places than starboard. Boat is level on trailer. I cannot simply measure up from the chine since the glass on the hull differs in height by 3/8" a long the way and differs by 1/2 from port and starboard? Any tips? I have a straight 2x4 ripped to my finished deck height should I just level that up across stringers and make a mark on gunnel? I need an accurate line along gunnel to set my cleats for the edge of the deck. I am going to reuse the original fishbox/casting deck which was only held in by the drain fitting.

[uncleboo]

I used a lazer level to make my marks.

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...1&d=1524244442

[uncleboo]

I'm thinking more and more the orientation problem with the pics is due to which way you rotate the phone camera when taking the pic. Some are right and some are not.
The line doesn't look straight due to the angle the photo was taken. It was dead on when I cut the deck coring.

[lelandtampa]

I lost my notes and need a measurement. From the rear bulkhead on either side of motor well to stern edge of console. 78 master angler 20.

[lelandtampa]

Never mind it's even with the back edge of the bow rail recess.

[lelandtampa]

thanks Vezo. i am at a point now where i have my new sole pieces cut and ready to go down.

during demo i removed the rotted wood blocks around the straight down scuppers. i want to redo them with the cross tube Moesly method but i am unsure if i really want a 90 degree thru hull on the bottom of the boat on both sides.

should i just re create the potter style blocks and run a long brass tube through it flared on both ends like a long transom drain? like mcgillicuddy did?

the ones i pulled out during demo were like really long 2 piece splashwell drains

[Vezo, Part II]

Just wrote all of this, hit proofread, preview post, and was freaking logged out!!!

[Vezo, Part II]

Try again.

My ‘79 MA purchased in ‘96, required a new transom and repower in ‘99. CSC was not founded until 2002, so I rebuilt mine to 20”. Bad idea.

Fortunately I found a competent glass guy to use marine plywood and rebuild from inside. He’s dead now. Unfortunately, neither of us understood Mr. Mosely’s theory of cross over floor drains, so we scrapped it, allowing vertical drains to flush into the bilge. Bad idea number 2.

I have replaced brass drain tubes in early Boston Whaler Sports, and the process, with the tool, measuring, heating and annealing is not fun.

If I were you I’d go back to original design because it simply works. On my Seafari, the vertical floor drains go through hull, with wedges forward, causing a Venturi effect while underway. Plugs in while fishing (weight in stern), pulled on plane and when at rest at the dock. Must be the additional weight of the cap that allows this versus a CC. A very nice feature. Hope this helps.

Disclaimer: I am a Disabled firefighter. I am not an aero/naughtical engineer, nor understand advanced physics. However, I do read CSC daily, whether logged in or out!?!

Michael.

[Vezo, Part II]

I did not DARE preview all of that again. Sorry for the disrespect Mr. Moesly. Auto correct from my contacts of a friend who spells it differently.