Rebuild of '75, 23' center console begins

[strick]

Originally Posted by JBASS02

You could also do a half round piece of PVC. There are lost of examples around, and that's what I did too.

like

[captsuperfly]

I used a 1/2 PVC pipe. While you're in there, I'd take a hard look at the tabbing around that keel and the stringers. If you see black glass, it's likely moisture wicked up under the tabbing. I had to grind out a lot of it.

My tank bed was installed like yours was. and it laying hard on the stringers at the hull joint. I'd look at that joint too and look for any splitting in the stringer tabbing. I ended up entirely rehabbing the stringers and ground them out. I also added a fillet to help take a little stress off the stringer to hull joint.

Yours might be fine, but I'd take a really hard look at all of it and like Strick said, get that old fir keel out while you've got it all apart.

Good luck! It's all looking good.

[Old'sCool]

Only 1/2" PVC pipe?

[uncleboo]

Originally Posted by Old'sCool

Only 1/2" PVC pipe?

Half pipe. Looks like 1-1/2 or 2".

[take a potter]

So just to go down this rabbit hole.

What would the layup schedule be if you were going to glass in a half of a 3" pipe? The pipe is just for form right, not expecting any structural input from it.
I would assume that the glass would need to be uni-directional(running the long way) for a large majority of the laminate, is that correct?

Also, would I need to support the hull differently, right now it sits on the trailer and it has two keel rollers? It is a bunk trailer.

I have been comfortable with everything else I have done, but Strick's hull splitting story, has me feeling like I need to consult a navel architect on this one!

I can't imagine, at this point, making a keel stringer that is stronger than what they made in '75. The one in there now seems solid. However, I guess I will never know about its integrity until I cut it out. I have drilled 8 holes along it, just thru the glass, and have not found any discolored wood, but that is less than .1% of the area, so really proves nothing.

All that said, other than the no wood argument, why cant I just use whats there as the mold. Get it down to good clean glass and add a few layers?

There is no obvious "black" tabbing, even in the one place that there was an overlap that was not completely rolled down, but its on the top of the keel stringer, so less likely to sit in water.

[uncleboo]

I didn't replace mine. When I cut the aft 6" +/- for the transom core, the wood inside was as hard a teak. It was not easy to cut out and very solid so I let it be. Also, did not see any messed up looking glass/delamination. I recently purchased a '73 20sf and will be looking at it hard.

[captsuperfly]

Originally Posted by Old'sCool

Only 1/2" PVC pipe?

No, Sorry. To be clear, it's a SIX inch pipe, cut in 1/2.

[captsuperfly]

[QUOTE=take a potter;270943]So just to go down this rabbit hole.

What would the layup schedule be if you were going to glass in a half of a 3" pipe?

FIRST - This is my FIRST project like this. Lots of guidance from folks here and elsewhere, but there ya go.

I cut a SIX inch drainage pipe in half. First, I ran 3 layers of 1708 down the keel after grinding out all of the old tabbing and cleaning up the glass there. I ran it wide enough to make sure the pipe and the fillet would fall inside of it and that the glass over there pipe when I glassed it in would make contact with it.

I scuffed the pipe, shaped it a little up front to get it to lay down nice and laid it on a bed of cab thickened epoxy along its edges. I then filleted the running edges with thickened cab.

I ran three layers of 1708 over the top of the pipe.

As to other keel support/transverse support etc, I'm sure others on here have more experience than I do.

I added bulkheads between the stringers and ran low transverse supports under my fuel tank beds that were filleted and tabbed in with 1700.

[take a potter]

[QUOTE=captsuperfly;270957]

Originally Posted by take a potter

So just to go down this rabbit hole.

What would the layup schedule be if you were going to glass in a half of a 3" pipe?

FIRST - This is my FIRST project like this. Lots of guidance from folks here and elsewhere, but there ya go.

I cut a SIX inch drainage pipe in half. First, I ran 3 layers of 1708 down the keel after grinding out all of the old tabbing and cleaning up the glass there. I ran it wide enough to make sure the pipe and the fillet would fall inside of it and that the glass over there pipe when I glassed it in would make contact with it.

I scuffed the pipe, shaped it a little up front to get it to lay down nice and laid it on a bed of cab thickened epoxy along its edges. I then filleted the running edges with thickened cab.

I ran three layers of 1708 over the top of the pipe.

As to other keel support/transverse support etc, I'm sure others on here have more experience than I do.

I added bulkheads between the stringers and ran low transverse supports under my fuel tank beds that were filleted and tabbed in with 1700.

Nice work that looks great. Thanks for the information.

[dirtwheelsfl]

I ground alotta crap outta this 23 keel, so went pretty heavy with new glass. A 20”, 16” and a 12” 1700 and a 10” 4008 triax, which is like a 1208 with 28oz? Uni on top. It will get a half round pipe with another 4008 on top. I like being able to bottle jack a keel should the need arise lol